30 mm worktops

E

EddieM

Do not buy 30 mm worktops unless their is a specific need, these PITA objects have been the subject of every flipping headache on our kitchen build.

1) As they're relatively thin, they bend more easily hence the 2.4m board is somewhat banana shaped.

2) The banana shape caused the sink to not sit flat unsurprisingly.

3) The admittedly fairly useless sink clips dont really accommodate 30 mm worktops, as rubbish as they are they are designed for 40mm worktops.

4) The edging tape which I wanted to use instead on end bars is cut for 40mm worktops, this has meant that the edging didnt go quite as planned and now its back to end bars... Grrrrr (ok I admit there was a combination of not possessing the right tools and experience for this)

But all in all for the sake of an extra £50 it really has been a false economy.

Oh well put it down to experience.
 
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I'm surprised you have a warping issue Eddie - usually so long as there isn't an unsupported span then the surface should remain flat enough.......I would have thought the surrounding units would have provided that.
I agree with the sink clips though - only Franke ones seem to accommodate the thinner tops.
John :)
 
I'm surprised you have a warping issue Eddie - usually so long as there isn't an unsupported span then the surface should remain flat enough.......I would have thought the surrounding units would have provided that.
I agree with the sink clips though - only Franke ones seem to accommodate the thinner tops.
John :)

Nah they came pre-warped they had been stacked semi vertically... grrrr!
 
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Aye, thats guaranteed to be a knacker......mind you, thicker tops stored like that would have the same issues!
John :)
 
Yep, next issue will be the tiling, still I just measured it, *only* a 3-4 mm bend which doesnt sound much the the bend only starts in the last 40 cm of the top. Still just makes it longer and more labourious. Well next time, if there is one, I will be checking the ruddy tops!!
 
Eeee, that last tile was a bit of a tight fit :LOL: All good though, semi proud of me'sen. lot of laying out headaches with the tiles though. Now just the tile cutting in to do, I feel I'll give in and buy an electric tile saw, never been much good with those manual jobbies.. !! (oh and have to take a bit off the pelmets as I put them on before tiling.. you live and learn!
 
1) As they're relatively thin, they bend more easily hence the 2.4m board is somewhat banana shaped.
If it really matters ALL worktops bow, especially if badly stored. It's because they are only laminated on one side......

3) The admittedly fairly useless sink clips dont really accommodate 30 mm worktops, as rubbish as they are they are designed for 40mm worktops.
Did you consider using 10mm packers to sort out the problem? On the sink base unit, where the horizontal splat/nailer is, I always have to faff around because the sink clips won't accommodate 58mm thick stock (40mm worktop + 18mm nailer). It's all part of the joys of installing a kitchen

4) The edging tape which I wanted to use instead on end bars is cut for 40mm worktops, this has meant that the edging didnt go quite as planned and now its back to end bars... Grrrrr (ok I admit there was a combination of not possessing the right tools and experience for this)
Right tools...... Stanley knife, laminate blades, steel straight edge and a file? (and the two of the first three are actually optional).

I do agree with you about 30mm tops, though. The do indeed seem to be less flat than 40mm thick ones, which always makes corner joints problematic - and is one reason I don't like them
 
If it really matters ALL worktops bow, especially if badly stored. It's because they are only laminated on one side......

Did you consider using 10mm packers to sort out the problem? On the sink base unit, where the horizontal splat/nailer is, I always have to faff around because the sink clips won't accommodate 58mm thick stock (40mm worktop + 18mm nailer). It's all part of the joys of installing a kitchen

Right tools...... Stanley knife, laminate blades, steel straight edge and a file? (and the two of the first three are actually optional).

I do agree with you about 30mm tops, though. The do indeed seem to be less flat than 40mm thick ones, which always makes corner joints problematic - and is one reason I don't like them

Yes I attempted to pack the clips, but it wasn't particularly successful, also as the dishwasher is going under that bit of worktop there was limited room for manoeuver. Ironically the only clips that got much, if any purchase were the ones under the horizontal nailer 30mm + 18 mm = ok for the clips. Mainly its held down with silicone sealant weighed down and clips tightened as best as possible.

The edgings were indeed filed down, stanley knife would only serve to shatter the edging, I nearly bought a laminate trimmer, but really couldn't justify the cost.
 
Right tools...... Stanley knife, laminate blades, steel straight edge and a file? (and the two of the first three are actually optional).
The edgings were indeed filed down, stanley knife would only serve to shatter the edging, I nearly bought a laminate trimmer, but really couldn't justify the cost.
Depending on how much oversize the laminate edging is you can either trim it much closer to the required size (but still oversize) before attaching it using a Stanley knife with a laminate blade and a steel straight edge:

or after fitting by using a Stanley knife and a flooring hook blade to trim away most of the excess (it works on the pull stroke):

I prefer the former as hook blades are pretty dangerous things to use IMHO. Both these blades can be bought at B&Q - or at least my local one has them in stock at times. As to shattering the edging - nope, it doesn't - providing you have the right blades.

With the right blades a Stanley knife can be an exceptionally handy and versatile tool
 

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