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For sure, you are at the top of the welding tree there! John

The CV looks ok, but this one is surely a mystery! John :)

Depending on the make, piston and barrel kits are available at really competitive prices (Stihl, Husqvarna etc) - but if it's uncommon or some B&Q thing then it's scrap. People just don't listen and learn! John :)

Yep, that’s a knacker! Lubrication and/ or air filter failure big time. John

The quality of welding rods vary.......I've used Oerlikon and ESAB ones which have been great, and some Chinese rubbish which were truly awful. Thanks but no thanks, Machine Mart. Presumably the flux varies too. My hands are shaky a bit, so I like to hold the rod with a gauntlet rather than...

That's curious as you've already done the hard bit! I tend to leave the strut top bolts loose until it's all back together and then tighten everything so you could try that. Have you tried knocking the top of the hub with a hammer to see if it budges at all? John :)

It makes no difference how old the rods are - the ends may go a bit rusty though and this can interfere with the initial arc strike. Any slight heat will dry them, and of course once the arc is struck the dampness will immediately vanish! So long as the rods haven't been immersed in water and...

A perfect solution, and one that we always used in schools. Unfortunately my MIG work (trailer repairs just now) means that my set has to be mobile. John

Clamp the earth to the work piece, it will be fine for a small welder. John

I meant to add..... If you pop off the exhaust silencer you can see the piston, rings and barrel condition. Any scratching here and the engine is in bother. John

If you don't have a gauge...... Stick your thumb over the plug hole Crank the engine over smartly and you shouldn't be able to stop the gas escaping. Whilst you are there, invert the machine, crank it over and blow out any fuel that will have collected in the crankcase. John :)

Ok, we can assume therefore that the earth connection is fine. So,it’s out with the multimeter to see if you are getting 12v at the bulb centre terminal. If that’s ok then you need to check the earth from the bulb holder to the body work. John

Are the other lamps working in the cluster? John

It's the lowest part of the transmission so that's a difficult one! Transmission oil normally has a distinctive fruity smell.......any clues there? John :)

That's fair enough Chris - but you can save around £65 and get some experience so it's the choice of the individual. A motor with new bearings may well last as long as a new one. John :)

Resin has a distinctive and not unpleasant smell - and sticks like hell too! Any clues there? John :)

Apologies for the late reply Jonny! Can you give us a pic of the tank and carburettor that you have? Thanks John :)

Check the flow of fuel from the tank - bypassing any filter that may be there. Pop a new plug in just to rule this out. I guess this is a black painted carburettor - a Dell'orto? John :)

Yes they do. As the motor casing is alloy, gentle heat with a heat gun expands things nicely so the bearings come out easily. Just look out for a spring shim, washer shaped, at one end. John

Personally I'd use ceramic grease (as it contains no metal particles) but in this situation any of the greases you have will do - the thicker the better! Ceramic grease is available from motor factors. John :)