pipe stat on Rayburn setup

[robbie77]

Hello,

I am hoping that someone/s can give me some advice on choosing a thermostat to attach to the pipework at my mums house.

The house is heated soley using a rayburn, Its very basic there is also a hot water tank and immersion heater for hot water.
If the rayburn is left on for a long period of time then the hot water gets very hot and if the pump is not switched on then the loft becomes incredibly humid and condensation starts dripping from the roof and the ceiling has collapsed before now!
All the tanks are in the loft and it gets like a greenhouse.
I am not aware of any valves on the pipes.

Can I buy a thermostat that clips onto a hot water pipe that would activate the pump when it reached a certain temperature?
Would it wire straight into the fused switch with the pump or would I need a small controller?

Its a bit of a bodge so I am looking to improve it as best I can.
Any recommendations?
Many thanks…..

Untitled

• robbie77
• 17 Oct 2010
• 2

Untitled

• robbie77
• 17 Oct 2010
• 2

Untitled

• robbie77
• 17 Oct 2010
• 2

Untitled

• robbie77
• 17 Oct 2010
• 2

 

[Rhondo]

I think your system might need more attention than a pipe stat.

Looks like you got a steam generator.
You don't mention radiators but I assume these are fitted.

The cylinder should ideally have a n/o valve on it so when its up to temperature it energises shut.
Honeywell make them (I can make my own ) and they also make good qualty pipe stats.
Then the flow is directed to the Central heating thus the ceiling stays up.

That last image seems to have a cylinder on its side or is it just the image on it side?
Anyways you're pipe lashed all over the place. I never venture into lofts when jobs like this pop up. One look and I'm off quicker than Alonso out of a pit lane.

 

[londonboy]

.......

I never venture into lofts when jobs like this pop up. One look and I'm off quicker than Alonso out of a pit lane.

 

[robbie77]

Thanks Rhondo,

There are 5 radiators and a towel rail.
I've met a fair few Alonso's in my time so thought I would try and get my head around it as best I could.
The picture is on its side, granted the overflow pipes need replacing with proper pipe and solvent weld fittings but it's making the Rayburn safer that I really need to concentrate on.

Honeywell pipe stat is on the shopping list then
Any other pointers or recommendations?

Couple more questions

Do I need an auto bypass valve in there somewhere?

I can't see a drain cock? I was going to run a cleaner through surely most systems have them!?

Thanks

 

[Rhondo]

You won't need a by pass.
It should probably be fitted as per MI's....... like this!
http://www.rayburn-web.co.uk/raytech/chtg2.htm
It is solid fuel???

Might be no drain kok.
There should be a heat leak rad fitted also.

 

[doitall]

I think your system might need more attention than a pipe stat.

Looks like you got a steam generator.
You don't mention radiators but I assume these are fitted.

The cylinder should ideally have a n/o valve on it so when its up to temperature it energises shut.
Honeywell make them (I can make my own ) and they also make good qualty pipe stats.
Then the flow is directed to the Central heating thus the ceiling stays up.

That last image seems to have a cylinder on its side or is it just the image on it side?
Anyways you're pipe lashed all over the place. I never venture into lofts when jobs like this pop up. One look and I'm off quicker than Alonso out of a pit lane.

As I read your post Rhodo, it is incredibly stupid and bloody dangerous advice.

The primaries should have nothing on them, repeat NOTHING.

 

[Rhondo]

Sorry Doitall. I thought the cylinder temperature could be controlled.
ANti scalding and all that.
Am I wrong?
Im just a cowboy. Should I remove the ones I've installed?
JHC 10,000 posts. WHat are you? Some kind of super poster? LOL
I bet you been plumbing since the year dot.

 

[robbie77]

I'm not sure what a n/o valve is anyway?
It's a solid fuel burner.

I think the plan is to purchase a L641B high limit pipe thermostat 40 to 95

I unserstand that it attaches to the pipe via springs.
I need the thermostat to activate the pump at say 50 degress, to prevent the cylinder getting too hot in the loft.

I think that the stat will have a C, 1 and 2 terminals.
How should I wire this to the pump?


Thanks..

P.S Is it likely to be one big circuit? Could I drain it down through the taps if I turnt the water off? I am thinking of adding a drain cock and desludging to be on the safe side.

 

[robbie77]

Right I have just ordered a Honeywell L641B1012 High Limit Pipe Thermostat.
I am going to wire the thermostat to the fused spur, C to the live and 1 to the neutral.
I am then going to wire the pump to the thermostat, Live to C and neutral to 1 and then earth the pump also. When the thermostat reaches temperature on the pipe it will call the pump to become live and thus start pumping the hot water around the central heating system so that it does not simply rise and boil the tank.

Does this sound correct?

 

[londonboy]

Your connections are wrong.

Use a junction box/wiring centre.

(Ill show you wiring the easy way)

Spur:
L 1
N 2
E 3

Pipe stat:
C 1
1 4
2

Pump:
L 4
N 2
E 3


Your way creates a dead short between L and N

 

[doitall]

Sorry LondonBoy thats wrong.

You need C== Com, and 2 make on temperature rise.

 

[doitall]

Sorry Doitall. I thought the cylinder temperature could be controlled.
ANti scalding and all that.
Am I wrong?
Im just a cowboy. Should I remove the ones I've installed?
JHC 10,000 posts. WHat are you? Some kind of super poster? LOL
I bet you been plumbing since the year dot.

The temperature can only be controlled by the boiler stat, and the primary circuit must be open to atmosphere at all times.

Fitting a pipe stat to bring the pump on for the rads would work, but could also burn the fire out with prolonged heating.

Been into industrial plumbing and heating since 1958

 

[kevplumb]

wouldn't it be easier to fit a heat leak rad

 

[robbie77]

wouldn't it be easier to fit a heat leak rad

I'm not sure but I guess this would mean changing the pipework so that it forced a rad to be filled before the hot water went straight up to the cylinder.

You can probably make out in the pictures the pipe comes straight out of the rayburn above the gate valve.
/
Doitall so you are saying use the 2 terminal instead of 1?
I am guessing that the introduction of motorised valves and a room thermostat is the best way to go but I really want a quick safe solution asap so I am pleased you think the pump and stat idea will work even if it means the fuel burns out quicker!

 

[doitall]

The introduction of motorized valves is not the best way to go, or a good idea.

The live to the pump connects to 2 in the stat.

I said you'll burn the boiler out, not the fuel, the Rayburn should be ticking over quietly, not roaring away.