Like I said above - albeit indirectly. Is it bed time yet?
yes it is bed time, get some rest and I'll report back on sat!
heating pump constantly on Y plan help needed!
- Thread starter fuzzyone
- Start date
yes it is bed time, get some rest and I'll report back on sat!
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G
gaswizzard
Like I said above - albeit indirectly
Sorry Dan I keep mising posts
, another couple of hours before bed time.ah I see it now, ta
I'll have to get some new specs (and I thought that was a dark coloured cable core going in with the yellow on 3 but can see now its the edge of the back box!
)Matt
edit
terminal 4 I mean
G
gaswizzard
and I thought that was a dark coloured cable core going in with the yellow on 3 but can see now its the edge of the back box!
Matt
yea it does look like two cores going into top of #3 terminal strip. Sponsored Links
That set up has had some work done ion it. the diverter valve is not original (hence the box) and the wiring has been played with (g/y on cyl stat has no red marking - yet the terminals coming form the wall into the line connectors are marked red. At least as far as I can tell from the picture.
Can you clear up a few queries?
Terminal 1 ("Neutral")
The wires going into into this seem to be green/yellow, which would make it the Earth Terminal. Please confirm
Motorized Valve
The hanging junction box is really unnecessary. Hopefully the wire colours in and out of the box are matching (blue in to blue out etc). Please confirm which colour wire goes to which terminal
Boiler
How many wires go into the boiler, what colours and which terminals?
Terminal 1 ("Neutral")
The wires going into into this seem to be green/yellow, which would make it the Earth Terminal. Please confirm
Motorized Valve
The hanging junction box is really unnecessary. Hopefully the wire colours in and out of the box are matching (blue in to blue out etc). Please confirm which colour wire goes to which terminal
Boiler
How many wires go into the boiler, what colours and which terminals?
Yes i think i got it mixed up, terminal 1 should be ground which is green/yellow.
From memory, that extra junction box is not needed, it matches going in and out, possible someone spliced it and put this box there to look 'fancy'. I will double check then re-wire back in.
The last question, where do I check this? Is this behind the programmer in the kitchen?
From memory, where the wires from the wall connect to the terminal box, there are 3 white colored cables which each contain 3 wires (red/yellow/blue)
This picture might make it a bit clearer.
From memory, that extra junction box is not needed, it matches going in and out, possible someone spliced it and put this box there to look 'fancy'. I will double check then re-wire back in.
The last question, where do I check this? Is this behind the programmer in the kitchen?
From memory, where the wires from the wall connect to the terminal box, there are 3 white colored cables which each contain 3 wires (red/yellow/blue)
This picture might make it a bit clearer.
No, it goes behind them into T1.
Thanks for the pic; it makes things much clearer
As for the last question, I was asking you to check this at the boiler!
The wiring seems to be as follows:
Top
1. Earths Are there one or two wires in this sleeve?
2. 2 Neutrals
3. Red - Boiler switched live
4. Yellow - Boiler pump live
5. Yellow - Heating stat call terminal
6. Blue (red sleeve) - Programmer HW OFF
7. Red - Programmer HW ON
8. Red + Yellow (red sleeve) - don't know what these do
Bottom
1. Pump + MV earths
2. Pump + MV neutrals
3. MV Orange + Cyl stat Green/yellow (call)
4. Pump Brown (live)
5. MV white
6. Valve Grey + Cyl stat Blue (sat)
7. Cyl Stat Brown (common)
8. Not used
The words in italics say where the wires should go.
The wires I am not sure of are the ones going onto the top of terminals 1, 2 and 8. Is there any way you can find out where they go?
Your boiler has pump overrun, which is why the pump has a separate terminal (on non over-run boilers the pump would be connected to terminal 3). Your problem could be due to a fault in the boiler.
Of course, why didn't I think of that!
Theres actually 3 earth wires into 1 sleeve for terminal 1, guessing this is for the 3 cables in the wall.
I couldnt trace the yellow cable terminal 4 to this boiler area but I did remove the plug and re-attached, must've done it loose as the pump stopped working (which i thought i might have fixed it) but I redid this and back to the same problem. Also I re-wired that small junction box, it wasnt even needed as the input and output were exactly the same, so wired it to the terminal block removing that waste part.
See the pictures below, the part number for the PCB is 202267: http://www.keeptheheaton.com/acatalog/info_glow-worm_202267.html
Would I need a new PCB board? I suppose I can go for a refurb one for £35 or is there a problem with the overheat module? It says overheat cut off button but in the last picture, I can push this in but feels like there is nothing there, as in theres no spring, just feels like a snapped button if that makes sense, could this part be replaced?
Failing all this, any pro in the London SE28 area want to fix this for me, paid job of course but need a quote first.
I couldnt trace the yellow cable terminal 4 to this boiler area but I did remove the plug and re-attached, must've done it loose as the pump stopped working (which i thought i might have fixed it) but I redid this and back to the same problem. Also I re-wired that small junction box, it wasnt even needed as the input and output were exactly the same, so wired it to the terminal block removing that waste part.
See the pictures below, the part number for the PCB is 202267: http://www.keeptheheaton.com/acatalog/info_glow-worm_202267.html
Would I need a new PCB board? I suppose I can go for a refurb one for £35 or is there a problem with the overheat module? It says overheat cut off button but in the last picture, I can push this in but feels like there is nothing there, as in theres no spring, just feels like a snapped button if that makes sense, could this part be replaced?
Failing all this, any pro in the London SE28 area want to fix this for me, paid job of course but need a quote first.
Just change the PCB mate...you have got this far.
dont wana spend 100 to find out that its not the problem lol
Well i suppose if i go slow, I can easily replace the PCB myself but is there anything I can check to make sure?
I.e. the overheat button, is that changeable, any other parts which may be at fault?
Well i suppose if i go slow, I can easily replace the PCB myself but is there anything I can check to make sure?
I.e. the overheat button, is that changeable, any other parts which may be at fault?
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