M
madmax1970
Hi
Does any one have a diagram or can email me one, any help please
Does any one have a diagram or can email me one, any help please
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//www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=37582
See item No 10, that is the original method of 'looping in' at the ceiling rose.
These days it's more common to loop in at the switch box, so there is only one cable at the ceiling rose. It makes connecting and fault finding easier because it reduces the need for a pair of steps. And make sure you use a deep box, 25 mm min.
See item No 10, that is the original method of 'looping in' at the ceiling rose.
These days it's more common to loop in at the switch box, so there is only one cable at the ceiling rose. It makes connecting and fault finding easier because it reduces the need for a pair of steps. And make sure you use a deep box, 25 mm min.
What a load of rubbish - the most common method to to loop into and out of the ceiling rose that is what it is designed for - standard wall plate switches are not.
You will still need step ladders to reach the ceiling to install the cable there and the ceiling rose.
So you create extra work, deeper box, rather than use the equipment available to do the job correctly.
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Riveralt in fairness, 95% of the new builds I've been near are all loop in / out at the switch.
Quite alot of logic control kit seems to need a neutral at the switch, and although there is extra work on the chase sizes and box depth there is quite a lot of sense to doing it.
Least we all forget that half the ceiling roses in most properties are being dumped when the light fitting is required as a direct mount to the ceiling or where GU10, MR16 or any other recessed lighting is used.
As for testing, well you still need a ladder for the light wire, but testing at a switch is much easier.
You 'seem' to hate the idea, why?
Quite alot of logic control kit seems to need a neutral at the switch, and although there is extra work on the chase sizes and box depth there is quite a lot of sense to doing it.
Least we all forget that half the ceiling roses in most properties are being dumped when the light fitting is required as a direct mount to the ceiling or where GU10, MR16 or any other recessed lighting is used.
As for testing, well you still need a ladder for the light wire, but testing at a switch is much easier.
You 'seem' to hate the idea, why?
Cos he thinks theres only one way to skin a cat, due to his lack of experience and imagination.
M
madmax1970
Riveralt is confusing me, i have asked my m8 and what u and chris are saying is right, i would get my m8 to do the work but he is flat out with work
thanks for help
thanks for help
Cos he thinks theres only one way to skin a cat, due to his lack of experience and imagination.
Cos he thinks theres only one way to skin a cat, due to his lack of experience and imagination.
That's a bit harsh, Riveralt posts some great answers. Maybe it's been a bad day, let's wait and see what he posts back.
M
madmax1970
so this diagram is right then i to the same at next light minus the switch, correct
Sorry, that makes no sense at all. Can you try again, but this time actually say what it is you're trying to do, and what your question is.
M
madmax1970
sorry i find it hard to say wot i mean on web,
I am wanting to put 3 lights up but work from one switch,
so was wanting a diagram that shows wiring from supply to switch to rose and then out to next light and then to next light , if u get wot i mean ,,
cheers
I am wanting to put 3 lights up but work from one switch,
so was wanting a diagram that shows wiring from supply to switch to rose and then out to next light and then to next light , if u get wot i mean ,,
cheers
Not around here there not. I have no problem in mixing and matching as the design of the circuit requires - but I don't make rash assumptions about the type of circuit I am dealing with without further information.
I don't hate the idea, I never said that - though the idea of having to dig a deeper hole for a 25mm back box rather than a standard 16mm does tell you that there is more work involved than necessary taking that option.
The OP has presented what I initially assumed is a situation where he wants to install a three gang switch. Donrkebab has decided that the best route is to wire the loop into the switch (because its the common way to do things today) without any knowledge of the wiring system current in place - nor a clear understanding of what the OP is trying to do.
Perhaps it is he who lacks the level of knowledge and understanding to be able to consider other options than the 'common way'.
To the OP - if I now understand what you want to do - you want a single gang switch that will operate three lights at once.
In which case you need to bring to the T&E 1mm live, neutral and earth from a nearby ceiling rose/juntion box to the first ceiling rose live loop (centre terminals - brown) neutral loop (the lamps neutral terminal block blue) and earth loop.
At the first ceiling rose connect another T&E live(brown) to the lamps switch live (brown wire terminals), the neutral blue to the netural terminals and the earth to earth loop.
Run the cable from here to next lamp, wire the brown to the lamps switch live, the neutral to lamps neutral and the earth to the earth loop.
Run another cable from here using the same terminals to the final lamp and wire the same.
At the first lamp ceiling rose - run T&E from here to the switch.
Put the brown in the centre live loop - put the blue(with brown sleeve) to the switch live (lamps brown terminal) and the earth to the earth.
At the swtich put the brown in common and blue (with brown sleeve) in L1 -put the earth inthe earth lug.
Thanks for the expanded answer. I've not used a 16 mm switch box in a decade.
Reason being space, limitation of cabling inside box and because flat plates are either tight or simply don't fit a 16 mm box.
As for extra effort I'll take an extra 2 minutes to dig the wall back to 25 mm with the sds and a nice sharp chisel bit. Nb a dremel with a stone bit does a lovely job of sharpening an sds chisel.
Reason being space, limitation of cabling inside box and because flat plates are either tight or simply don't fit a 16 mm box.
As for extra effort I'll take an extra 2 minutes to dig the wall back to 25 mm with the sds and a nice sharp chisel bit. Nb a dremel with a stone bit does a lovely job of sharpening an sds chisel.
I have to agree, looping at the switch is the prefered way nowadays on new builds. This is because of the increase in downlights, outside lights and fancy light fittings where space is limited. Since it's common place to fit 25 mm deep flush boxes to allow for dimmers and flat plate ranges, there's usually enough room in the box for extra wiring.
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