As our voltage is allowed, and has always been allowed, to vary by a certain amount above or below a nominal value, the ONLY way that a statement of what our voltage IS can be correct is for it to quote our nominal voltage.
How many times have you berated someone for using 230V when calculating a shower current stating the manufacturer will have used 240V - which is what was being done in the post to which winston1 was responding?
Very true - and, as you correctly say, for that reason the regulations require us to use 230V for many calculations.
However, I'm sure that winston1 would be right in saying that the average actual UK supply voltage is nearer to 240V (probably a bit over) than to 230V - which, as you've also said, is well within the premit tolerance around the 'nominal' value.
There's often something to be said for true 'harmonisation'. However, to create so-called 'harmonisation' in the way which was done for 'nominal' EU electricity supply voltages is, IMO, quite bizarre - and I'm not really sure what it has achieved.
If we talk about EU harmonisation, I thought that most of Europe had settled on 220V?
Is that my over-fevered imagination? If not, how does the UK being on 230 or 240 achieve EU harmonisation?
Now we will have to also compensate for a reduced resistance while the kettle warms more slowly. ... However, the water does not know any of this and will boil at the same 100°C so is the resistance of the element any different?
If, as seems reasonable, one assumes that the element always remains at the same temperature as the water then, yes, the resistance should be the same when the water reaches 100°C, regardless of the voltage - hence 'Ohms law would apply' at that point in time. However, as you say, a lower voltage would mean that the kettle would spend more time at lower temperatures (hence lower resistances) - so that the average current and average power over the full heating cycle would presumably be a little higher than one would have predicted by applying Ohm's Law with an assumption of constant resistance.
If we talk about EU harmonisation, I thought that most of Europe had settled on 220V? Is that my over-fevered imagination? If not, how does the UK being on 230 or 240 achieve EU harmonisation?
I'm pretty certain that no EU country changed anything when 'harmonisation' occurred - for example, as winston1 said, the 'usual' UK supply voltage remains in the range of roughly 240-245V post-harmonisation, just as it had been for many decades prior to that. 'Harmonisation' was, AFAICS, a purely paper exercise which created a permitted range of 'acceptable voltages' which encompassed all the voltages which were actually being used in Europe. As I said, I'm not really sure what it is meant to have achieved, except in the minds of bureaucrats! Maybe some of them were naive enough to believe that the various Member States would gradually change their actual supply voltages to 230V!!
How many times have you berated someone for using 230V when calculating a shower current stating the manufacturer will have used 240V - which is what was being done in the post to which winston1 was responding?
This is nonsense. If the element and the water were the same temperature then the element would never be able to raise the temperature of the water. That's basic thermodynamics.
This is nonsense. If the element and the water were the same temperature then the element would never be able to raise the temperature of the water. That's basic thermodynamics.
True - but I woiuld say probably quibbling. If (as is obvioulsy desirable) the element is in close thermal contact with the water, the temperature differential between them will always be small - although, as you say, obviously not zero.
It is rather simple if a 13A fuse is used and then more than 13A is drawn over an extended time the fuse will blow and so fail safe.
There is a curve so likely you can draw 26A for 100 seconds without it blowing.
There is really no danger in trying to use the circuit and see if the fuse blows. If it does no great problem renewing and no harm done as long as you allow things to cool before renewing.
All this ohms law and calculations with talk about if the UK is 230 or 240 volts does not help the poster of the thread.
The simple fact is the fuse will blow before the cable is damaged so everything should fail safe.
Keep it simple 3kW = 3000W = 13A there is no need to argue to if 2800W or 3100W it does not really matter with a 13A fuse.
True - but I woiuld say probably quibbling. If (as is obvioulsy desirable) the element is in close thermal contact with the water, the temperature differential between them will always be small - although, as you say, obviously not zero.
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