Here is a picture of one without a light so it would appear that the 'top' connector of your switch is the neutral.
Do I take it that should read "... it would appear that the 'top' connector is probably the neutral"?Here is a picture of one without a light so it would appear that the 'top' connector is the neutral.
That would obviously be useful confirmation, although I imagine that it's very probable not much doubt that the blue wire will prove to be neutral. However, even when the neutral wire has been identified, that won't help the OP to know, for certain, which of the switch's terminals it should be connected to. To determine that, he would need to take his continuity meter and determine which of the two terminals were connected to 'the switch' (continuity with switch in one position, but not the other), whereupon I think one could reasonably assume that 'the other terminal' was for the neutral connection.Hi, use your multimeter on continuity and meter between your blue wire and the N terminal on your plug.
NO NO NOHere is a picture of one without a light so it would appear that the 'top' connector is the neutral.
EFLI knew that, and said so...NO NO NO ... That picture is of an on/off SWITCH with no light indicatorHere is a picture of one without a light so it would appear that the 'top' connector is the neutral.
He knew that as well. His point was that (assuming it was the same make) the no-light (2 terminal) version had the L and S/L terminals in the positions shown in the picture, this (probably) meant that in the 3-terminal (with light) version, the terminal in a different position from those two would (probably) be the neutral.NONE of the terminals are NEUTRAL. One is live and one is switched live. Just like a light switch, remember them?
It's a single pole switch - I hope neither of the terminals are marked neutral.How do you know the new replacement switch does not have clear marking of the neutral terminal.
Eh? What 'it' are you talking about? AIUI, the OP's old (illuminated) switch has (as expected) 3 terminals (marked '1', '2' and '3'), one presumably neutral, and he wishes to replace it with something identical or near-identical.It's a single pole switch - I hope neither of the terminals are marked neutral.How do you know the new replacement switch does not have clear marking of the neutral terminal.
Hi, use your multimeter on continuity and meter between your blue wire and the N terminal on your plug.
Kind regards,
DS
So why did you not tell us all of that information at the very beginning.
It would have saved so much backwards and forwards guesswork.
Do you think that the contributors here get paid to try and help people like you who only tell a quarter of the story.
You said the SWITCH was MISSING.
If you had even had the thought to state what the make and model of the heater was then we could have missed out all of this b&^*())llcks
Look at this diagram, item 30.
http://www.gdainfo.com/Resource1049...rts Lists/Dimplex_Heating/OR115TLG_SPARES.pdf
This is heater made by Dimplex (sound familiar?)
There are lots of places that sell Dimplex spares.
It's not really a cause for being afraid, but I think you're probably otherwise correctNonsense, I'm afraid.What .. are you talking about?
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