Hi, would appreciate any advice from electricians please.
My friend has an immersion heater which is wired via a normal 13A plug in socket and then a hard wired switched box with a neon light. The plug has been becoming hot while on and has failed to come on today. On opening the plug she found it had burnt out, suggesting that is the area of the weak link.
Searching the web suggests that most heaters are 3KW (I don't know if it is) and it should be hard wired through a 20A double pole isolator switch so i'm guessing the problem is likely to be that 13A is not sufficient. Would I be right or should 13A be enough & therefore it's possibly a faulty connection or something else?
I'm afraid I don't know the rating of the appliance or whether the box (coloured red with a red neon) is a 20A double pole isolator switch. Nor do I know if the supply is via 2.5mm 2 core & earth or the feed is via heat resistant 16A cable (I'm not an expert, I've just been googling).
I'm aware the work should be done by a qualified electrician but I'm trying to assess what is the likely extent of the work, i.e. might it be just a case of hard wiring the appliance to the ?isolator switch, & how much is it likely to cost.
Any advice would be gratefully received.
On a separate but related issue, before the burn out, if the plug socket was switched on after the hard wired one, the immersion didn't come on but the other way round it did. Does anyone know why that would be the case?
Thank you in advance.
My friend has an immersion heater which is wired via a normal 13A plug in socket and then a hard wired switched box with a neon light. The plug has been becoming hot while on and has failed to come on today. On opening the plug she found it had burnt out, suggesting that is the area of the weak link.
Searching the web suggests that most heaters are 3KW (I don't know if it is) and it should be hard wired through a 20A double pole isolator switch so i'm guessing the problem is likely to be that 13A is not sufficient. Would I be right or should 13A be enough & therefore it's possibly a faulty connection or something else?
I'm afraid I don't know the rating of the appliance or whether the box (coloured red with a red neon) is a 20A double pole isolator switch. Nor do I know if the supply is via 2.5mm 2 core & earth or the feed is via heat resistant 16A cable (I'm not an expert, I've just been googling).
I'm aware the work should be done by a qualified electrician but I'm trying to assess what is the likely extent of the work, i.e. might it be just a case of hard wiring the appliance to the ?isolator switch, & how much is it likely to cost.
Any advice would be gratefully received.
On a separate but related issue, before the burn out, if the plug socket was switched on after the hard wired one, the immersion didn't come on but the other way round it did. Does anyone know why that would be the case?
Thank you in advance.