Do you really think that you should be encouraging him to do DIY gas work opening the sealed boiler case?
Have I blown my boiler electronics?
- Thread starter Dan8322
- Start date
Do you really think that you should be encouraging him to do DIY gas work opening the sealed boiler case?
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Really, Is the wiring inside the sealed combustion chamber? Most boilers have the wiring terminals accessible without removing the sealed cover.
If it is, I stand corrected. Thank you.
If it is, I stand corrected. Thank you.
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I would certainly not touch the gas or water parts. As for the electrics and electronics, I'd work around the latter, having school qualifications and a degree in that.
Admittedly I didn't expect a low and high voltage mix up by changing one wire on an external, unpowered part, which is something you wouldn't expect in typical electronics.
In fact, looking at the Danfoss manual, it depicts a simple switch at the terminals. It doesn't look like it takes 240V L or N and connects it to the control terminals, which might cause 240V into a 24V circuit. I can't see how it could have caused so much damage.
Admittedly I didn't expect a low and high voltage mix up by changing one wire on an external, unpowered part, which is something you wouldn't expect in typical electronics.
In fact, looking at the Danfoss manual, it depicts a simple switch at the terminals. It doesn't look like it takes 240V L or N and connects it to the control terminals, which might cause 240V into a 24V circuit. I can't see how it could have caused so much damage.
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The Danfoss is just a switch but the dual channel Hive connects mains voltages to the four output terminals and there's really no way around that.
Correct, the Danfoss has potential free contacts, so it won't have caused any damage.
But the Hive Dual Chanel doesn't. Its switching contact is directly connected to the L terminal inside the Hive, so when it switched the 'heating on', terminal 4 would send 230v down the wire to the boiler.
As a side issue you will have also pulled a considerable current through the Hive, and may have damaged its switching circuit too.
Yep, you're right, I forgot I had connected the Hive during that process. It's been a long week.
I'm going to just bite the bullet and have it repaired, and chalk this one down to experience. Really all down to my choosing the dual channel when I didn't need it, and not understanding the various possible thermostat wiring options.
I'm going to just bite the bullet and have it repaired, and chalk this one down to experience. Really all down to my choosing the dual channel when I didn't need it, and not understanding the various possible thermostat wiring options.
Of course, one thing I have to do is keep the boiler running until Friday, which is when I've booked the Vaillant service for. I can't seem to find anything in either manual about how to configure that - I was going to set it to always on, and then set the timer to 30 on/30 off and reduce the radiator temperatures to moderate the heating a bit. Is there an override for the remote thermostat, ideally without opening it up? Or have I made a bad assumption and now am really up s**t creek...?
If "someone " was to take the front cover off your boiler and had stems wiring diagram in front of them they could replace the 24v link and have heating, of course no one would recommend that you diy with your degree in electronics, that would just be wrong.
Why do posters not put there location on the profiles!? This could quickly and easily be sorted by someone that is close on here but we know not the general location.
You mean short the 24V RT pins? I've effectively done that outside the case by disconnecting and closing pins 2&3 (?) at the thermostat receiver when I was testing it. It still said gave an S30 status code
I'm no expert so been stupid perhaps.
But if there is a wireless rf receiver next to the boiler then how does changing the thermostat make a difference?
Surely the cables in the wall are just for power and the switching is done by the receiver next to the boiler ??
But if there is a wireless rf receiver next to the boiler then how does changing the thermostat make a difference?
Surely the cables in the wall are just for power and the switching is done by the receiver next to the boiler ??
The existing Danfoss wireless receiver has been removed from said wiring, and a Hive receiver connected in its place. The Hive receiver has then sent 230v down the wire to the boiler.
But if the boiler PCB has been fried, you might not.
Dan8322, of course we are all still assuming the original thermostat receiver was switching 24v from the boiler. As the fuse has blown, it looks likely this is what happened, but it has not been confirmed.
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