removing voltage regulator from diesel heater

Status
Not open for further replies.
I am using a 10 meter length of 0.75mm2 coil which is thinner then the one meter of wire allready preinstalled onto the machine

I know that the length of cabal will create a voltage drop on DC electronics, but dose the wire being to thin create a voltage drop as well??? or could it be another sensor on the machine? or is the "wire being to thin for it to trip theory" be a load of rubbish?

Volts drop affects voltage of both ac and dc equally. The lower the voltage you begin with, the more of an issue volts drop can be.

The high current carrying wire in the machine, will be adequate for the current, and they have been able to ignore the volts drop, because the wire is so short.

Yes, my Webasto does sense the voltage and does shut down if the battery voltage falls - that is to protect the battery from damaging over discharge.

Shorten, or increase the size/cross section of the supply cable.
 
Sponsored Links
The high current carrying wire in the machine, will be adequate for the current, and they have been able to ignore the volts drop, because the wire is so short.
Do you think that even the thicker wire that came with the machine is to thin for a 10 meter extention coil? Do I need or am i better with thicker cable then that


BTW there is about 0.5 difference in voltages from the battery to the machine
 
Yes, my Webasto does sense the voltage and does shut down if the battery voltage falls - that is to protect the battery from damaging over discharge.
Can you start your heater with out the engine running charging up your battery?

It is only drawing current for a very short time. So I think the whole thing about protecting the battery is a storm in a tea cup!
 
Do you think that even the thicker wire that came with the machine is to thin for a 10 meter extention coil? Do I need or am i better with thicker cable then that


BTW there is about 0.5 difference in voltages from the battery to the machine

For 10m I would be thinking to use at least 2.5mm maybe even 4mm. Why is the battery, so far away from the heater?

0.5v volts drop, is that with the heater drawing it's maximum current, when trying to start?
 
Sponsored Links
Removing safety devices is a very bad idea.
As-Hill is the new DiyNutJob. Or possibly the same one.

Either way, you're not allowed to go round making perfectly sensible, reasonable, logical suggestions like that in their threads. It's "yes up, or shut up" I'm afraid

I mean I have a small car battery hear that I discharge to 4/5 volts
If it's lead acid based, t's ruined
still holds 13+ volts
Irrelevant measure of anything in your context

I am using a 10 meter length of 0.75mm2 coil which is thinner then the one meter of wire allready preinstalled onto the machine
Thinner wires, more resistance. Longer wired more resistance. More resistive material, more resistance. More resistance, more heat. More heat, more resistance.

You do, perhaps inadvertently with a little knowledge being a dangerous thing, seem to throw every possible hurdle into the path of your harebrained schemes..
 
Last edited:
For 10m I would be thinking to use at least 2.5mm maybe even 4mm. Why is the battery, so far away from the heater?
Because the battery is at the rear of the trailer and the heater is in the middle of the room

0.5v volts drop, is that with the heater drawing it's maximum current, when trying to start?
No that is with out drawing a load! As I do not know how to messure the voltage on the machine when drawing a load. I Only have one set of multi meters so can only messure it at one side

If the voltage drop in the cable between the machine and battery is 0.5V when doing nothing. Will this differance in voltage drop be even more then when it is drawing the load?
 
As-Hill is the new DiyNutJob. Or possibly the same one.

Either way, you're not allowed to go round making perfectly sensible, reasonable, logical suggestions like that in their threads. It's "yes up, or shut up" I'm afraid
Well no its not matty! there is no crime or harm done by removing the voltage detector. or is this the woke agenda?
As our man P.C says "Resist! Defy! Do not Comply!"

It's ruined

Irrelevant measure of anything
No it is not ruined! it full charges on the meter and holds 13+ volts and stats the car every time!
 
Can you start your heater with out the engine running charging up your battery?

Yes, of course.

It is only drawing current for a very short time. So I think the whole thing about protecting the battery is a storm in a tea cup!

It draws current, the entire time it is powered up, but the highest current by far, is when it starts up with the glow pin active. The low battery voltage cut out, will be deeply integrated into the control system, your chances of defeating it - nil. Reasons to try to defeat it - nil, it is there for very valid reasons.
 
Yes, of course.
I tried it on 2 good batteries from the battery mans shed yesterday and non of them would start the machine. But this was with the 10 meter extenstion cable in question though

It draws current, the entire time it is powered up, but the highest current by far, is when it starts up with the glow pin active. The low battery voltage cut out, will be deeply integrated into the control system, your chances of defeating it - nil. Reasons to try to defeat it - nil, it is there for very valid reasons.
If it where designed better then it should not active when powering up.

So you recon it all be in the mother board and not on its own board then?
Dose it need a glow plug for it to start anyway?
 
Cost of a wrecked battery, £40 to £100. Cost of a few metres of adequate cable - a few pence to a pound or two..
But it wont start the machine though. What size is your battery that you start your Webasco with may I ask? Cold cranking or leisure battery type?
 
lets try a different tack
you need a strong adult to push start your car you detect a strong but small child that you know wont have the strength ----do you carry on anyway and possibly harm the child ???
 
The man in the battery shed wont be in today I am afrade so no scraps of wire going and I dont want to be ripped off by screwfix. So I am thinking of chopping my 0.75mm2 cable in half and joining it together and running live though 2 of the wires and negative though the other 2 wires.

What do you think? Do you think it will give me 3mm2 wire with out putting to much resistance up?
 
The Eberspacher heater did have a low voltage cut out, I would think most do, as to battery voltage, I have in resent years had to revise my thoughts on damage to batteries due to over discharge. It does depend on type of lead acid, for a traction battery or absorbed glass mat or valve regulated lead acid they seem to survive deep cycling far better than the vehicle start battery, to get the high amps to start an engine yet keep the battery small, the way the spongy lead is held on the plates allows it to fall off with deep cycling, the leisure battery is a hybrid, not as bad as a vehicle start battery for loosing the material, but worse than a traction battery.

However load will drop the voltage on a traction battery much more than with a vehicle start battery, so where a battery needs to do both, a leisure battery needs to be 1.5 times the size of a vehicle start battery where used for duel tasks, like in a motor home.

So not seen a diesel heater run of a battery less than 90 Ah, in the main looking at 3 x 140 Ah batteries when used in a narrow boat, a forth 140 Ah being used to start the engine. And even then I know my son had problems keeping the heater running through the night.

In the main we over charge batteries to equalise the cells, and speed up charging time, where they are float charged we use around the 13.4 volt, but a vehicle is between 13.8 and 14.8 volt depending on the system used. The automatic chargers for AGM typically charge to 14.4 volt then switch off until battery voltage hits below 12.8 volt and then they turn back on, this is considered better than a float charge of 13.4 volt as it does equalise the cells.

Most manufacturers have the minimum no load voltage as 12.4 volt, under that returns are rejected, and the stage charges (some times called smart charges, use a pulse system to charge a battery under 10.5 volt, a typical charge graph 1703413683128.png this charger is a problem if battery being used, as it will not return to full 3.8 amp once it passes that stage, it alternates between 0.8 and 0.1 in large battery selection and 0.1 and off in small battery selection, the latter Lidi charge does return to 3 amps. And I think the Ctek does return to full output.

As to batteries left to fully discharge, when my father-in-law died I found two stair lift batteries which had been abandoned some 6 months earlier, I had to cheat to charge them, by putting in parallel with a good battery, the charger set to small battery mode was put on the pair through an energy meter, it charged the good battery then switched off for 10 days, then started charging the abandoned battery as if some one had flicked a switch, this was unexpected, and after it had finished charging the 7 Ah battery seemed to be fully restored, this was a VRLA type, the second battery of the pair did the same, and I have found VRLA/AGM batteries do seem to recover if left on charge long enough and were OK to start with, leisure batteries also seem to recover, as do the old jell batteries used to heat the valves on old radios. But vehicle start batteries the success rate is a lot lower, when I studied at collage in the late 60's early 70's smart chargers were not around. We would have never dreamed of leaving a battery on charge for two weeks, the chargers back then would have fried the battery.

The problem I found with a caravan was volt drop in the cables from the car, so the battery could be 12.4 volt, but at the caravan under load it was below the cut out voltage of the inverter, at the 14 volt charge voltage the battery to battery inverter input voltage was high enough for it to run and charge the caravan battery, the whole idea of charging a caravan battery from the car has changed, we use to used split charging relays in the car, but modern cars turn off the charging when under power and only charge on over run, this is dangerous with split charging relays as they switch off and this disconnects the anti-snake device in the caravan, so now blocking diodes are used instead, although not a huge volt drop, there is some, so simply connection to caravan battery does not work, it needs a battery to battery charger or inverter, so caravan battery is stage charged. And ignition supply is not lost due to car saving energy by stopping the alternator charging.

So question is how long and what size is the cable used battery to heater? Is this causing the volt drop, what size battery is being used, 40 Ah is minimum size for a caravan "A721.55.3.2 Capacity" and I would say in the main smallest used is 90 Ah, I would use smaller I have two 35 Ah AGM batteries for the mobility scooter and likely they would be OK where there is normally a mains supply, but would need a smart charger so stop over charging.
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Sponsored Links
Back
Top