Recent content by A and E

Thanks for the tip, bans-all-sheds! I was already aware of that as my next 'problem'. I think I'll 'dig out' the wall cable a little bit (the resulting hole will be covered by the plate, I hope). Regarding the choc, there's actually a really well thought out little peg just up and to the right...

No, no intention of using the in-line switch. The light would be in the house's ring and operated from those switches ('wired'). The wire from the bulb housing would be cut around 20 cm and rerouted down (i.e. No longer passing through the exit hole it is in the photo) and through the 'large...

It's labelled as double-insulated. However, it's a plug wired wall lamp that I need to cut the input wire to then link those lamp wires to the wall input with a terminal block (which will be, obviously, inside the metal casing). The current wiring takes the lamp wire through a hole above the...

I have a new light fitting to fix to this point. As you can see, the last person cut the cable short and I, unfortunately, need to extend those wires through a metal cases wall mount. That would leave a single insulated set of wires inside a metal light fitting. Erm.. I have no experience of...

Thanks for your comment. Is there any reason not to use tile adhesive? I used adhesive to make the rest of the platform (see photos) and it has served well. The raised base is over an underfloor heated floor too. Cheers again.

It's a stone resin base. The mortar wasn't adhering very well to the base and the base moved on the mortar after it had dried. Thanks

Hello,I owuld appreciate some advice on using tile adhesive for a shower base. The base is to go onto a raised platform of which the top level is backer board (see photo). I've tried using a standard mortar but have had a bit of a mare, so the base had to come up again. One tradesman suggested...

For some reason (my stupidity) when I tried to upload the completed picture yesterday, it didt happen. I tried running hot water through the pipes to soften the adhesive and then , effectively, what Old and bold suggested. The new trap will be concealed in a pedestal, so I hope I can cut...

Sorted! Thanks.

I think I may have enough access, but it's some method of 'breaking' the gripfill's hold on the silver pipe without cracking the white one that's the crux of my problem. The white pipe goes straight down to behind the boxing (just visible a top the bottom). And, yes, sink is going in the same...

Hello, Apologies if this is obvious, but how do I solve this problem safely. Was going to do a simple basin swap u til I noticed how the last fitter had adapted the metallic silver of the sinks waste to the 32 mm PPE waste. Seems to have filled the PPE with gripfill and pushed the smaller...

hello, Can't strip of the vinyl pint from the plasterboard and left with (lots of) edges. Wanting to pliant surface with F&B Modern Emulsion (7% sheen). How do I prep this surface now? And how's to I minimised risk of the vinyl edges showing through? Many thanks!

Any idea if there is such a thing as a ceiling rose were the cable exit is on the side of the body rather than the standard (cough) 'bottom exit'? Want to run the exiting cable parallel to the ceiling for a short distance to enter a light fitting. I guess I could drill holes, etc, but that...

Thought I'd give some closure to both me and this thread. Thanks for all your comments and help. Subsequent to these discussions, I contacted Astro regarding my query on the visible core wires. They replied to assure me that the visible cores are actually already double insulated. After much...

Sparkwright, Your suggestion on the rose maybe a good way forward. However, your comment on the double sheathing of cores made my eye drifted to the other end of the internal light parts. Having been focused on the double insulated 'box' I hadn't really paid much attention to what was going on...