Recent content by ABCwarrior

I used my digital vernier calipers to take the thickness of the window which was 54.75mm...then used my sinking square to take depths from internal/external frame to the glass which was 16.75/16mm so the unit must be 22....The windows are now about 13 years old, nothing would surprise me if this...

Our downstairs bathroom window has failed and needs replaced. I've calculated the entire unit is 22mm thick and it seems as if it would be replaced from the outside as the internal moulding on the frame is just too fine to allow any prying. The windows are timber, I have no idea what company...

I also read that outside only, but when I recently removed our screen to properly clean it and regrout, the scuzzy orangey stuff under it was minging... Maybe the screens need a few mm Packers under them when fixing at the sides. Would allow better external sealant application and better...

So, today I changed both existing valves to manual ones as planned. I've figured out from Toolstation reviews that the additional 10mm space I plan to use at one end will need about 20 wraps of PTFE. Any advice on how much tape to add to the tails? Do these manual valves need any tape or paste...

Will try that on a spare bit of offcut, maybe some of my mountain bike disc brake cleaner. And I've got 99.9% IPA for the fork servicing, try that... I bought 2 manual valves as I want to set it and divert more heat to other rooms that need it more, when the trv was removed the room got insanely...

Well, decided to modify a few bits... Separated the cold from the right angle and added another piece to get the exit from the 22/15/15 a lot squarer. Thing is I redid the compression fitting with just 2/3 a turn and had to nip it up and eventually I realised it was not happening.... Aaaargh! So...

Photo 3 is the concerning one, I can't seal up the wall until I'm happy it's not leaking at all... Cheapskate Scotsman I may add in another right angle to ease that lateral pressure.. Then buy pushfit tails too, and redo the external tap.... Or phone a plumber lol!!!

Oh sh*te.... There's another kick in the nuts.... I've never heard of that....but with the litany of huge failures around this place nothing would surprise me.... As I say the one from the hot water is fine cos no stresses. I might have to rejig some of it but it won't be much.... Thanks though...

Jings.... Panic station there counted 20 joints but not adding up, had to fish through the bin and all adds up ok now....

Yes, but now I'll have to go and count how many I have left just in case...

So.... Yesterday I redid all the he plumbing in the shower room with a mix of JG and traditional compression fittings.... On gently repressurising the system there were evident very minor leaks, all where the 2 differing systems met. HW to JG all good nice clean straight exit. But CW not so...

Thanks CBW. Yes the research I've done re the 3/4 indicated that nothing PTFE or paste is needed. I may just feel the surfaces and if anything is off, give it a wee buff down with a scourer. I'm just trying to avoid draining the whole system. But it may be unavoidable... Top advice re shunting...

Cheers for the replies and should have got the camera out... It seems it's a mix of 15mm and on the opposite side a 3/4".... Which begs the question is this all reusable or am I best to drain the whole lot down(maybe wise after 11 years?), Separate the lockshields and renew them... I did also...

Hi folks, Please bear with me on this one...Our poorly thrown together house of 12 years aged needed a revamp of the downstairs shower room, I'm a stonemason to trade, have my HNC Building but obviously not clued in to every trade. Cut it short, rotten rusting radiator, removed and took all...

Hi folks, Following on from my radiator questions (thanks for all the replies) here's my next set of questions !!! Had a look at the idea of: A- tile over tiles(not keen) B- fit Respotex or equivalent over it. C- rip it all off the wall, replace plasterboard with marine ply(+ tiles or...