Recent content by AlexaCollinsDesign

Have a look at Diapol. I haven't used them for a while, but I've found them very good in the past and their price was unbeatable. And the service was pretty fast considering the stuff comes from Estonia.

I've had some really good savings on radiators. You have to watch out for when they have offers on. I'm not entirely sure how I signed up for it, but they seem to text me when they have deals on. The offers seem to be short lived, ie 20/30% extra off on power tools or whatever, but for 1...

Depends on how good the floor is, whether you have to get plumbing in there for rads, how you're going to support the front wall (if there's no footing), if you have services in there that need to move etc. If you have to dig chunks into it all over the place anyway and you don't want that step...

You can call your local compliance team about something like that and they'll go and check it out.

Henry/Hettie every time. Or, in reality, not very often as they soldier on for ages.

Sounds like you're doing the right things, but I wouldn't rush to do the front wall until you're certain you've established the cause of the damp. A local damp/rot man could probably come and advise you and be worth spending the money. I've done quite a few Victorian houses and the front bay...

Quantum baths from Carron make a good variety of shapes and sizes. There's a really good one where the shower bit is square and works like a decent shower enclosure but isn't overwhelming on the bath bit. I've also fitted that into an alcove without fitting the glass screen and just tiled...

Typically your garage floor will run out from the house towards the garage door. ie it will slope away, so you'll find the depth of difference will be much bigger at the garage door end than it is at the house end. Usually you'll have to put in a fair amount of work to check those levels...

You could try JB Kind or Jeld-Wen. They might not be in Manchester, but they should have a local stockist or supplier nearby.

But if you have solid joists below and (I'm assuming) a solid oak product above, surely this is a spacing and fixing issue rather than a quality issue? If you’re talking about laying directly on the joists leaving too much of a gap, what about applying a baton to the joists of exactly the...

I wouldn't be so certain things have moved on... I know that one of my local councils print out the documents received in pdf, stamp them with their special stamp and then scan them back in. Technology eh? :D

You're right, if you drop the floor, you'll have big gaps at the bottom of your door frames, but also under your doors. Which will be very drafty, especially if any of the doors were previously trimmed to allow for carpet. And if you raise the floor, you'll have an issue everywhere the floor...

I’m not sure there are any minimums specified as part of regs, it’s really a question of making sure it all works and looks right too. The minimum I would allow for a loo is about 750mm and that’s pretty tight, but it really all depends on the design of the room and what sanitary-ware you’re...

I ask my clients for 50% of goods on placing my order with the supplier and then balance is payable prior to delivery. That way, once the goods are on site, they’re theirs regardless of whether or not they’re fitted to the wall. And labour is charged afterwards. If it’s fixed price, then...

That really is 'How long is a piece of string?' But as a rough guide, take whatever you've got as being what you want to spend... and then know, that it's going to cost at least double that...