Recent content by amuiphoto

Thanks for the replies, and yes the way I did it was with zone valves on each circuit and a new Heatmiser Slimline stat which switches the valve for the new UFH circuit, the valve then calls for heat from the boiler.

Hi all, I have a Vaillant Ecotec plus 624 in my Victorian semi which is zoned with a Heatmiser UH1-W and has the following zones controlled by 2 port valves: 1 Kitchen/diner UFH (3 port manifold) 2 Lounge and hall rads - now replaced with 2 port manifold and UFH 3 Upstairs rads, 4 hot water...

OP didn't specify how big his house is although he does mention upper floors implying more than one. The reason I chose to zone my house is that it's a large victorian semi with 12 rads of various sizes on the upper floors. And also wet UFH in the kitchen. To have these all running when I'm...

I use the Heatmiser wireless system in my house in combination with zone valves and wireless thermostats (battery operated). I have 3 zones set up, Bedrooms and bathroom, lounge and hallway and UFH in kitchen. When the thermostat calls for heat the boiler fires up and the valve to that zone...

Apologies for the slow reply but to answer Tony's questions: The top lid of the unit is secured by Torx screws and was not opened by either myself or the installer so I can only assume the microswitch was wired incorrectly at the factory. I have since bought and fitted a new unit and it...

Thanks for the reply Dan, shall be fitting a new unit today if I can source it locally. For future reference is this the only condensate pump or are there others on the market you'd recommend?

Ive recently had a Worcester 24 combi fitted in a flat which I renovated and have now rented out. The installer (GasSafe) used a Sanicondens pump for the condensate. The tenant called me up recently saying there was water (condensate) leaking on to the floor below the Sanicondens. On...

Yes, this exactly what I was thinking of doing. However having taken on board the very useful advice offered here I can see that the existing wiring needs to be properly tested before any conclusions are drawn. Also what appears to be the case is that 1980's white T&E cabling doesn't...

Wow, nice job RFlighting, don't spose you'd let us in on how you did it? :wink:

Thanks, will commission a (registered) sparky to test those things.

Hi All, Have just bought a Victorian first floor 2 bed conversion. Am having it re-wired but the lighting circuit is difficult to access as there are people living in the flat above whom I'm sure wouldn't let me pull their carpets and floorboards up to access the wiring. Also there are nice...

Thanks tictic, they came up pretty easily and I switched the ufh on afterwards and it's still working fine. I'm changing the tiles because my missus didn't like the colour of the first ones and she gave me the option of re-doing the whole bathroom or changing the floor tiles.... and the latter...

Hi all, I'm taking up some 600x600 porcelain tiles on my bathroom floor and going to re-lay them with a different 600x600 porcelain tile. There is an underfloor heating mat which is set in to the existing adhesive and I'm pretty sure I can remove all tiles without damaging it. The tiles are...

Karis, thanks very much for your detailed reply! I think the joists are 200mm thick and around 5.5m long supported on brick pillars at 400mm spacing between joists. The architect did actually spec 25mm ply but due to the height of the sliding door installation (by a separate company) and...

Hi, it's suspended timber joists (200mm I think) with the UFH pipes laid in a concrete screed in between the joists. The ply was screwed down by the builders at regular intervals but I couldn't say exactly what the distance between screws is. The problem has occurred because the wet screed was...