Happy Christmas to all. Hope it’s an enjoyable one despite the circumstances of 2020. May 2021 be a more normal year for us all.
I’ve moved into a house with two Potterton boilers, each with its own controller. One boiler is for the upstairs rads and the hot water and the other is for the...
I'm trying to fix a neighbor's dishwasher, a 5 year old Baumatic unit. The fault is that the leak sensor has been triggered. This happened once before; I found very salty water in the tray at the bottom. I cleaned out the tray and dried it and ran it outside propped up on some planks connected...
Have had 2 lights just go dead and then started to get random 6A lighting circuit trips when a string of these was being turned on or off. Finally the string would not come on at all. Traced it to one light whose driver looks a bit worse for wear. Unfortunately they were installed as part of...
Gold star to you; you're clearly more than just a pretty face. :D
Found a small bar magnet and not only does it stick to the obstruction it also stops 2 or 3 times on the way down which suggests there are multiple layers of rebar. Hard to draw any firm conclusions though.
Forgot to to add - the concrete is hard as nails; it doesn’t come away in chunks but more like chips.
The hole was drilled about 2 meters away from the first hole and the void appears to be 22cm in depth below the 20cm of concrete.
I tried to use a long round file to ascertain if what I can...
So have drilled one more hole and then attempted to widen it a bit. The top surface is tough with small rocks/pebbles within the concrete. Didn't go very deep yet.
I was able to drill all the way through with a small diameter (8mm?) SDS drill but when I tried to enlarge the hole with a 13mm bit...
I'm investigating the feasibility of modifying my garage roof to increase the headroom in order to allow the installation of a 4 post lift to store a classic car. It's a double garage about 30 years old of single skin brick construction with a trussed roof.
I'm in discussions with a structural...
At the moment the return from the UFH is surprisingly cool; I think the UFH is soaking up a lot of heat. Input temp is roughly 56 C and output perhaps 28.
It looks to be installed in the correct direction. That said the output pipe is very hot all the way to where it joins the rest of the returns to the boiler suggesting it's allowing some water to bypass the 2 port valves even when one (for the UFH) is open.
and look what I found installed in the airing cupboard tucked away under the shelf! any idea how to set it? when the plumber fitted it the system was drained so at best he would have guessed at the setting.
Thanks for that - are you suggesting that I need that automatic bypass in case the TRVs on the towel radiators are shut meaning that the towel radiator bypass circuit is effectively blocked?
My central heating used to consist of a Potterton Profile 60e boiler with radiators on 2 floors and a hot water cylinder upstairs. The system is vented with a circulation pump. There was a three port valve that sent the boiler's output to either the hot water cylinder or the rads as requested...
In late September I'll be adding a retrofit UFH to the ground floor of my home (the polypipe overlay system). The installer has experience of the system in his own home and suggests leaving some rads in place as on the coldest of days the UFH might not be able to put enough heat into the room...
The brickie advised that some damp would come through the brickwork from the outside - I figured a few coats of Thompsons waterseal or the like would help with that. The porch is on the north side of the house meaning the walls wouldn't get as wet as on the south or west side but at the same...