Recent content by Burnz0

Thanks. I’m tempted to try a 92.5 angle connection and then either a rigid or flexi horizontal into the pan. I think I might lose some height as the flexi is quite a sweeping bend and is taking up a lot of space at the moment

Thanks. To confirm, can I grind some of the collar off so as to connect to the pipe lower down and therefore (hopefully) be able to fit to the toilet with the correct fall? If I get a rigid 90 degree fitting then the bend takes up less space and it would be almost horizontal to the toilet so I...

Hi All. Im hoping someone can advise me on how I can fit my toilet and waste to the old vertical soil pipe in the floor. I need to also fit my bath and basin waste into the soil pipe as there is no easy accessible drain. The problem is the collar on the old pipe (is it clay or something else?)...

I'm not too confident in my ability to rip down such a thin strip without a proper table saw. Seems like it would be tricky with a circular or handsaw? I've attached a photo one that ive done so far. It's a bit blurry but hopefully you get the gist of it. It probably would have been better if...

Hi All. I'm hoping someone can advise the best way to go deal with fitting architraves when one side of the door opening is very tight to the wall. It is the same throughout the house and it's probably 2-3cm max. I've had to fit strip wood to the door liners to bring it out level with the...

I was going to use it for the architrave and then I have a bit of fencing to make (half a panel) and fix a few loose panels on my shed so not sure that’s enough reason to spend £300+? If the £100 models are useless then a hammer it is!

Thanks. I should have done a search before as I can see this sort of question has come up several times and the answer always seems to be that the cheaper models aren’t much good and u don’t fancy paying £300+ for one so on that basis I’ll just make do! Just seemed like it would save me a lot...

Hi All. I’m going to have a go at the skirtings and architraves on my house over this next week and am considering buying a nail gun. I’m not too sure what I’m buying and would like to keep the cost down so interested to know if it’s worth it? Would I be able to get something for £1/150ish...

Hi All. I’m about to start on blocking up my old kitchen doorway. It’s on an external wall, double skin (no cavity I think but there does seem to be a void in places. It’s early 1900 so I don’t think there should be a cavity so the gap might not be intentional?). There’s a timber lintel on...

The steel bar is under the lintel & is just about visible from the photo. Both that and the lintel aren’t sitting on much if I remove the fireback & the angled brickwork so it does seem that some kind of support is necessary. I’m going to block it up so will prop some wood under there while...

Thanks. Is the soldier course support enough on its own or is the lintel underneath it needed (assuming i wanted to leave it open)? I guess it must be if that’s the original opening but it’s always hard to trust that bricks placed that way up unsupported aren’t going to fall! I’ll put an air...

Hopefully this is a bit better?

And to add - you can just about see a lintel about 6” above the top of the fireback but it’s not resting in the bricks either side. My worry is that by removing the fireback I’ll disturb everything around it & there won’t be anything holding it up. It doesn’t seem wide enough to me

Hi All. I’m currently in the process of removing the fireplace in my 1900s mid-terrace. I’ve got the old gas fire out & the cast concrete surround but now I’m unsure where to go. The fireback & surrounding brings stick out proud from the wall so need to be removed before I can block it up...

Thanks for your response. It seems like the timber was there as a secondary support whilst the diagonal bit of the stack was formed but the bricks should be (or should've been) self-supporting. I didn't get a survey done as I bought it on the basis that it was a full refurb at a discounted...