Recent content by Fevvahz

Thanks for the replies. I did ask the neighbour to confirm to much the work would cost me each time it was mentioned, but I never received a figure. I had a number in my head based on what I'd discussed with builders I know, and it was in the 5-600 region for the whole job. Factor in that...

I live in semi detached house in the north west. Several months ago my neighbours told me they were going to be having their roof done and that at the same time they were going to rebuild the top of the chimney stack. It was being done by a mate of theirs at mates rates, the whole job coming...

Thanks woodyoulike. To clarify - theres essentially no bitumen left on the bottom, its just bitumen staining.

I'm about to lay a load of reclaimed pitch pine parquet on new floor slabs (and dried for several months), i've scraped the bitumen off the back using a heat gun, but I need to decide on an adhesive. I realise that because of the bitumen residue I need to use something that's either bitumen...

xdave - spot on thanks - thats the sort of approach I was going to go for nothing too big of an excavation, just enough of a buffer.

I'm looking at re laying my driveway, which is currently constructed of non porous materials and which runs into local drainage. I'm trying to come up with a solution regarding the rainwater run off according to building regulations and I hope you could offer some advice. The area is heavy...

I'm trying to select a product to finish my Walnut worktop. I've tried some Colron Teak oil, but it doesn't add much to the colour. I've tried a sample of Auro 108 worktop oil and it looks much better. However the Auro does seem comparatively pricey compared to other products...

The house your working on has similar doors to mine? ...and they were just waxed following dipping? Do they look good despite their humble construction materials?

Straight to the point there Joe, I like that. I'm often accused of being harsh, but I like to think fair to boot. Now is this a case of aesthetic taste, being the colour choice or the part of the grain and texture you can see, or is it something more technical?

Well I thought I'd give it a go with some Ronseal quick dry varnish, walnut colouring, and I got this result: https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/sa4uUxCiTRokIGXvTq4NQg?feat=directlink The main panel, on the right hand side is the stain. The frame on the left is the same product, but...

I'm not saying that they've been stripped at all, dipped or sanded. Im assuming they've been stained years and years ago. The more I think about it, the more I'm starting to think that it might be best to bite the bullet and have them dipped though.

I'm fairly confident that they've not been dipped before, it'd be quite out of character compared to the rest of the house. It was built in 1928, has been in the same family since. I've got a huge stack of receipts from almost any building work and additions (including the bakelite handles on...

Firstly, let me apologise if this would be more appropriate in the 'Wood / Woodwork / Carpentry' section. I've started stripping some doors in my 1930's semi. They're caked with thick paint, and I expected bare wood underneath. I decided to strip it back, and repaint them. However once I'd...

Its getting close to that point I've been waiting a long time for since we started to dig up and pour new floor slabs in my house. We took up the original parquet and stored while we've been doing the slabs, and its nearly time to lay it again. I've read through many threads on here, and on...

Gents, I'm looking at constructing a fireplace surround to be tiled. I intend to use the fireplace in the future, would a wood and ply box construction be suitable once tiled, or would these be inappropriate due to the proximity of the heat? Thanks in advance.