Recent content by garethr83

Forgot to add that I have removed the big screw in the centre of the pump and not sure what I should have expected but only a few dribbles came out. I could see it spinning however, but not sure how fast or powerful it should be? I also removed the two connections to the overheat switch on...

Just fitted a new servo valve and diaphragm due to hot water being poor. Central heating was fine. I then got it all running again, bled the system etc, but I have a problem with the CH. It will spark and fire up but only stay on for around 10-30secs then knock off. It will keep repeating...

is this the part you speak of? http://www.abcotuk.co.uk/Product.aspx?ProductId=P216&catid=C2

well it's off and back on now so not much I can do about it. the leak is only a small one which progressively got worse to around 4-5tsps a day. I can live with it to save £120 being asked for the new kit but as it is in the kitchen an directly above the worktop join sometimes there is a bit...

any reason not to just dismantle the old plastic one by undoing the 16 screws and using new gaskets or sealing paste or similar? thanks

all fixed! never fitted the front cover lol, no wonder there was no pressure for the switch to work! doh I also have a big leak from the black plastic box/unit lower left hand side with 4 pipes going to it. Secondary heat exchanger. Although the part number I have in the pdf manual is...

If by blowing through the pipe that is connected to the flue collar gets it to work or sucking on the 'test point' gets it to work then surely the switch is working? Something must be preventing the tube from being 'blown through'? Would this be down to the fan or something? Thanks

would both of the tests I did indicate this or could it be something else? I never touched the gas section so not sure why this has happened since I only plumbed in the water section after removal? How long would it take to fit the pressure switch? My plumber mate charges £20 an hour

Any ideas on part numbers or anything else to look at?

I have an old Vaillant VCW GB 242 I developed no hot water unless I activated the servo switch manually, as a result I took it apart and have now fitted a new diaphragm as the old one was shot and also a new servo valve. Fine I thought, put it back together but the thing would not ignite...

In short Running a hot tap moves the servo valve. There are two clicks that it makes, with finger assistance it always makes the second click but 70-80% of the time it makes the second click automatically. It appears as if the servo valve doesn't always move far enough to make the second...

I have now replaced the pressure valve repressurised the system but it sounds like there's a load of air in the DHW system. It wont fire up and makes a loud 'gurgling' sound then the red warning light comes on. What is the correct way to bleed this? Pressure is at 2bar Now the servo...

If I push the lever of the switch by hand then burners fire but the diverter valve does not move. If I move the cam against the lever then the burners fire and diverter valve moves out to right. Does this mean the microswitch is kaput? Or does it mean it needs adjusting? Not really wanting...

This is the microswitch I am referring too: Should there be two seperate 'clicks' when the servo valve is operated? And the second click gives a signal to move the diverter valve to the right?

The servo valve seems to have two clicks. The first click sets off the burners the second click seems to move the diverter valve. Playing about with it sometimes the second click is not made and no HW. I guess it needs adjustment as if I run the water and push the cam by hand then voila HW??