Recent content by kedi7uk

Ah - OK then... thanks for the advice. Didn't want to have to call the professionals but guess I should then. Cheers Dan.

sorry - another question - any idea how I can take the old one out?

Thanks Dan - any idea where I can get a new polystyrene ball valve?

Hi and sorry if this has been answered before - I have searched but found nothing similar. I have a slimline toilet cistern. The flush mechanism is all plastic and the ball valve seems to be polystyrene which can be adjusted by screwing it up or down a plastic screw. The cistern started...

Hi Monkeh - I'm a little confused - I got brown plugs after reading this forum - what would the red plugs be for? and what do you mean by smaller bit? I've got a tube of Green Gripfill too is that the one you mean? Tks

Thanks for your reply Ken The skirting will come above the original skirting line by abt an inch - thanks for suggestion I'll use caulk to fill any top gap. No chance of slipping skirting down - windowsill comes abt 1/2 inch over back of rad (wavy bit) - would it be better for me to cut...

Hi - quick question...... I'm getting ready to replace skirting - The skirting area is bare brick/breeze with some gripfill for packing so will def need to screw and glue - do I need to remove rads before fixing skirting or is it possible to fix without? Thanks

Thanks Sparko - esp for the trunking tip - makes sense :-) Foxhole - no not on filled area but some of the brickwork crumbled when the skirting was taken off - does this matter? what would I use for packing and what's the best way to fix skirting - will be using wood not mdf. When the guy...

Hi, I've had skirting removed to get a wooden floor installed - I'm now left with a band of bare breeze/bric around the bottom of the walls where the skirting used to be - I've been told I need to fill to the level of the plaster before fitting skirting. - (I had the walls plastered a year...

Hi, I removed skirting to fit wooden floor (none of the skirting survived) the walls were plastered a year ago and the plaster only goes as far as the old skirting used to (hope that makes sense) so I've got brick/breeze for approx 12cm above the floor and the plaster stands approx 1/2cm proud...

sorry STE6085 - not advice but an extension question..... I had a similar problem and was told I would have to sand the paint back and then repaint. I've started - and although the roller marks have gone I can still see some stippling but I can also see sanding lines arghh - my question...

just talked to him and he said hasn't boarded out for at least 3 years -the floorboards I have a level and the uniclic floating floor is like one complete piece of wood. Said he didn't think I needed it and if there was a flood it wouldn't just be a couple of boards they needed to take up...

Hmmm - thanks Wood, he didn't mention overboarding and I haven't bought any plywood.... guess I need to have a chat with him.

hi and sorry for hijacking this old thread - but I just need a bit of clarification. I'm having Uniclic strandwoven bamboo laid in 2 rooms and connecting hallway. I would prefer the floor to run through all rooms rather than having door bars and separate areas.... The floor will be laid...

Thanks to Richard C and JCT - My bathroom went from this To this OK I still have some boxing in and other minor bits to do but THANK YOU... Next job - laying a wooden floor :-)