Recent content by lerence

Before I get shot down this isn't your normal "can I lay ufh on an old uninsulated slab" question. I own a solid wall 1920s-1930s house. It's built into sloping land and the entire footprint of the downstairs is above an approximately 2m deep cellar/basement. The ground floor is a concrete...

I just fitted a cupboard with those. Excellent things. Easy to adjust and the locking screw means it can't be lifted off the wall.

I hate it when people don't conclude the thread they make. I've been super busy recently but I've had a bit of time tonight to show the fruits of my efforts and excellent tuition from Doggit. I used exterior wood glue for the join. It's not perfect by any means, you can feel the join...

Thank you again, I feel like I'm saying that too much. It's turned up as a square edge, wife ordered it. That makes me much more confident about doing the work. Have the router, bit and masking tape, pencils and everything else I think I'll need. I'll report back tomorrow regardless of my...

Yeah the is a cupboard below the join across most of it. The worktops will be supported at the join by a cabinet. The walls are definitely out as well, placing the OSB on them has highlighted that. So I'll have to get the two lengths fitted, scribed into the wavey walls and then go from there...

I meant post form edge. I'm probably over thinking all of this but coming from electrical work, carpentry is alien to me.

Thanks again, that's how I'd planned to fit it too. The RH side is a new wall so would be relatively straight, maybe not true but not wavey anyway. Will the profile edge need any kind of special attention?

I have access to a festool beast, I've lined it up for the weekend. So to clarify I'll be doing two diagonal cuts where they overlap and then the bolts below, I think I could struggle with fitting two of them in. All with a router, after I've scribed them into my wonky walls. Cheers.

There is a unit below one and an integrated dishwasher below the other. The L shape is preferable to an infill I think. I've never really used a router either, not for anything as important as a kitchen worktop anyway.

Thanks doggit, that was my initial thinking. That section of the worktop will be an L shape, I drew a diagonal line with how I think it would be that can be seen in the picture. Shall I use a bolt under the counter to pull them together? The section that overlaps is 100x140mm, so only small.

I have a kitchen just over 4m along one side of the room, after just over 2m I have a brick pier that will need cutting around. At this point the the kitchen units set back. The worktop before the pier is a standard 600mm, the other will be a breakfast bar cut down to 675mm. The units have been...

Its 1200mm. Yes, 1.2 meters. Its only a small bathroom. Nothing much really but I wanna do it right. Doe the length affect much?

So, I've replaced the offending part of the floor that was actually water resistant chip board and not MDF. I now have some lovely WBP ply on it. I've screwed it 200mm centers likes I've read on here and its pulled it down wonderfully. But the entire channel is around 5-7mm lower than the...

Damn, wasn't expecting that. I'll see what I can do. Thanks for the advice.

It seems to be a channel in the floor for services. Its screwed down to what I imagine would be baton in the channel. I haven't lifted it up but there are definitely screws in it. I'd rather just buy the flexible stuff even if its only to ensure the tiny bit of wood I'm going over will not...