Recent content by MaryJane7

Thanks for your replies John and Axel. I know that the leak is somewhere under the concrete floor downstairs, which is just small entrance hall, living room, kitchen and conservatory. By removing the concrete and exposing the central heating pipes, I know that the leak is not in the...

Thank you for all your helpful replies. Here is my latest update! Lifted the inspection cover to see if the water is somehow getting in the soil pipe, but no joy there. Then tried John's suggestion and filled the header tank up to the overflow, turned the house water off, got someone to...

Thanks for your replies. I've now been looking at the fitted kitchen cabinet next to the SVP. I really don't think it can be moved out without destroying it. Its a large L shape with the outer corner of the L butting right up to the corner of the kitchen where the SVP is. The cold feed...

Thanks for looking at my problem. Here are the answers to your queries. 1. I don't know if is a beam and block floor under the concrete (built 1988). 2. Yes, the header tank does have its own isolator tap (in the airing cupboard) and I've been turning that on to fill the header tank. The...

Oops, forgot to say that I haven't got microbore pipes.

Here is my latest news: Went into loft this morning and looked in header tank. 4" of water in there, as normal. Turned on water for header tank. As the water came in, the water already in the tank went out. Rapidly. Turned off water source to header tank and turned off all the...

Wish this was a wind up, I'm feeling pretty uneasy at the moment! Will try turning off every rad and allowing the tank to fill first thing tomorrow, John, and will report back .....

Many thanks for suggestions so far. Today we've: 1. dug up concrete to expose pipes linking kitchen with conservatory, no sign of any damp and pipes in good condition 2. pulled up all carpets to check condition of concrete floors, no damp (all our floors are concrete downstairs with no...

I keep the heating on all day, although off at night. The coldest part of the house is the conservatory but there is a radiator in there and the air temperature has never gone below 7C. Is it likely that the central heating pipes in the concrete floor would still burst?

I have a 3 bedroom terrace house built in 1988. The central heating rads and pipes were put in when new, except for one additional radiator in extension about 10 years old. New condenser boiler and pump fitted 2 years ago and its a gravity fed system. Yesterday, with no warning and with the...

First of all, apologies for not reporting back sooner. I've been waiting to make sure that this story is complete before writing my posting. A quick reminder of the problem. I was getting a S.53 error message with my 10 months old Vaillant EcoTEC418 boiler both on cold and warm start-ups...

Many thanks to Tony, Dave and Dangermouse for their postings. You really have been everso helpful and I really do appreciate it. Tony, I've looked up about sulphamic acid and citric acid and can now see that they are limescale descalers, so I'm pretty sure that that is what my installer is...

Thanks to Eaton, dangermouse and Tony for their postings. At the risk of starting to bore everyone on this topic :oops: please can I report back that I'm still getting S53 on warm (but not cold) start ups. Reading eaton's and Tony's comments, should I ask my installer to do a powerflush...

Thanks for your posting Dave. I do see what you mean about trying to get the flow faster to try and reduce the temperature difference. Is a 15-60 pump more powerful and so might get the flow going faster? I've had a look at the present pump and its a grundfos 15-50, so I could certainly ask...

Thanks Tony. Do hope Dave and others have time to respond to your comments. Dave told me on an earlier posting (last Friday evening, 9.02pm) that on a similar boiler with the S53 error he had to powerflush (and other things) three times over 9 months before all was sorted. But perhaps that...