Recent content by paul2004

I hope this is the right forum. This seems to be a pretty standard requirement but i'd love to get some sage advice! i am fixing some floating shelves and bracket shelves that i want to have books on, so im concerned about the load and quality of fixing. I have plasterboard, a variable...

thanks for replying. oven and hob position im fine, no wall cupboards anywhere in fact. The height to the ceiling is out of the exclusion zone too. I was just worried about the effects of the odd dose of steam towards the light fittings. a few other people i've asked think im perhaps...

ideally i want a run of 4 LV halogens above a kitchen work surface, however one of the positions is over a hob. The hob doesn't have an extractor but a window right behind it. There's about 1.3m clearance above the hob. This is ringing alarm bells with me but i don't really know enough about...

croydoncorgi, the existing pipe work was a compression joint (after a cut off value) and so i ended up using them - i'd much rather pushfit but didn't seem possible in this situation. there wasn't enough vertical height between the existing pipe supplies (which run behind the cabinets...

Bahco - sorry about the accidental name change. sadly i was only in a position to test properly once everything was in place. sods law and all that. Racquel, that LS-X looks interesting, i'm reading up on it - have you used it much? on something like a leaky nut? Im wondering whether it's...

bacho, if i could easily get to the nut then i would! i suspect even tightening the nut a bit more would do it. trouble is i'd have to remove a sink which is sealed and jointed in now. so i'm wondering if there's something i can apply ontop and around the nut/thread to seal - much in the...

Hi, I've got some flexible hose going between kitchen hot and cold water pipes going to copper pipes descending from an ikea tap. Joints both ends are compression. Because of the awkward space around the tap connectors i only had one shot at getting the joints tightened correctly. Sods law...

the hob has a max rating of 6.4kw (although knowing my cooking i doubt i'll ever have it all on) but seeing as that is pretty close to the 30amp rating perhaps i'll just stick the oven on the ring. It isn't loaded too much as you say and that's how it was before. I didn't realise the hob was...

Im in the process of replacing an old electric oven and hob. Previously the oven was simply plugged into a 13amp socket which is part of the kitchen ring main (which also has a fridge and a double socket). The hob was connected to it's own spur from the consumer unit (32amp with 6mm cable)...

again jason thanks - that was nearly a complete disaster. Yes, the hob needs 40mm and the new oven has very little clearance at the top - so a 40mm top it will have to be. i was thinking of running the worktop down one of the side edges (seems to be trendy at the moment). So if you were...

my thinking at the moment is to not stain and not worry too much about colour. my feeling with staining is that once the worktop is scratched it's going to be even more difficult to look after. so i'll plump for walnut or iroko, depending on getting some oiled samples. one question though...

yes, i was going to get a standard block, i need something 3.5m by 900mm deep, at it's deepest, which i can just about do with an off the shelf panel. Id never considered a veneered surface, i'd be worried that in time the veneer would scratch down to the mdf inside. Or that i edge it...

jason, i learn something every day, that's really useful information! do you have any advice as to what the best type of wood to start with would be? In other words are there any other type of woods, like iroko, to avoid if i wanted to try staining them? thanks paul

jason, thanks for that, i was literally just talking to someone who mentioned that. it was really to see if anyone has stained wood and used it as a worktop before. i think the answer is yes, but perhaps iroko is not the best starting point! paul

i'd like to get a very dark hardwood kitchen worktop but wenge is stupidly expensive for what it is... i was wondering whether it's feasible to stain something like iroko, then oil it as recommended to protect afterwards. does this sound plausible, or madness? has anyone tried? can...