Recent content by Rredwin

Hi all. I am attempting to extend my patio in the garden and began digging down in preparation for laying the hardcore and then mortar. However, once I got about six inches down, I hit what already looks like compacted hardcore (see attached picture). Given that we’re a new build house built...

Appreciate the detailed response, thanks! That said, neither option sounds great to me, can't believe I would have to do so much work just to replace the taps! Oh well.

Thanks again for all responses so far in this. Can someone confirm that I need to earth the faceplate rather than the backbox as it currently is?

so our lovely new build house has three toilets but only one shower - in the en-suite. I want to put a shower mixer tap on the bath but the tap is against the back wall (pictured) and looks impossible to get to even with taking the front panel off. Am i missing something?

I appreciate that, which is why I have had the dimmer switch for a week now and haven't attempted anything until I'm 100% certain I know what's going on. I'm not fiddling, I just want to replace it; if that's too big a job for me I won't do it.

Ah right! I think I'm getting somewhere now. So Loop is just a terminal for the neutral. COM is for the voltage sent to the switch and L1 is for the actual light? And I assume L2 would be for a second light if I had one?

Thanks for all the responses. Why do I need to 'park' the neutrals? Are they not needed for a dimmer switch?

Thank you for a quick response! What's the deal with a separate connector box? Is it something I can do myself it is that asking for trouble?

I want to replace a one gang light switch with a dimmer switch. When i unscrewed the existing light switch, I found a lot more cables than I was expecting and none were wired in a way that made sense for the new switch. Any thoughts? Photos attached