Recent content by TrentW

Hi All, I going to flush the system and need to know which stuff is the best - I looked at ScrewFix and there are loads of different makes / types of cleaners. Any tips about which brand / type works best? (Caulking Gun type or liquid) I see they do a "Boiler Noise reducer" as well...

The Worcester man came today - He agrees that it's the heat exchanger, but said I need to flush the system before he would fit a new one. He was great, told me how to flush everything out and didn't even charge a penny. So next step is to flush the system using cleaners etc over a period...

He said you can buy the exchanger, but it's impossible to get the old one out... He said they'd tried before on a couple of other peoples boilers. I called Worcester and they said they'd do it for £280 fixed price like you said. Seems strange why they can replace it but this geezer can't...

Right... So the boiler man came today... :D He listened to it and said "It sounds like there's a block in the heat exchanger" He then said you can't replace the heat exchanger on this model (Worcester 28i Junior) and we need a new boiler :shock: You can buy the heat exchanger as a...

Thanks for all the replies... Turning down the temp dial didn't seem to make any difference. The engineer will be here on Wednesday, so I'll post a reply about what he finds then... Cheers Trent

Same thing - Doesn't matter which TRV I turn off / on the noise comes back straight away. I've also noticed that when I turn the hot tap on while the noise is happening, the water splurts out of the tap as if there's air locks in it - The pressure also seems to be much higher than normal...

I've found that If I turn off all the TRV's on all the rads and only leave the Non TRV heated towel rail running, the noise stops - If I turn one of the TRVs back on, the noise starts again... Not sure if that points to anything?? I'm going to try turning all rads off, then turn one rad on...

Yes, that what it sounds like to me as well... My gut feel is that there's air in the system, but I'm not sure how to get it out... The Boiler has an Automatic air bleed valve. I drained the system completely and while refilling it, could hear the air escaping from the valve in the boiler, so...

Pump was on Max, and it didn't make a difference when I changed it, so left it on Max. Yes, all rads (except towel rail) have TRV's and all are fully open at the moment. The towel rail in the bathroom doesn't have a TRV - In fact it doesn't have any valves - All it has are in line taps...

I thought the neighbours were up at all hours doing DIY, but it turns out it's our boiler in the loft making a noise :oops: We've moved into a house with a 3 year old Worcester 28i Junior that's installed in the loft. Whenever the heating comes on, the boiler makes a racket for a short...

Hi All, The bathroom is all done and working - thanks to loads of info from this site and it's members. Now comes the kitchen... We're moving the sink and washing machine, and adding a dishwasher when we fit the new kitchen. The WMC will be approx 2.8m from the outside drain (trap?)...

Thanks All... It all makes sense now... Now all I need to do is get a hole in the wall for the Soil pipe! :roll:

Hi Bahco, Thanks for the reply... The pipe only needs to go approx 500mm under the floor before it exits through the wall, so I should be able to get enough fall. Should we have bought an S Trap toilet or is connecting the pipes together as I surmise acceptable? [/img]

Hi All, We want to move out toilet from an Outside wall to an Inside wall. Currently the toilet backs onto the outside wall and the waste pipe goes straight through the wall to the vertical soil pipe on the outside wall. We want to move the toilet to an Inside wall - thus the soil pipe...

Cool... Thanks - That saves me a load of work! I assume the 22mm existing pipes are from the days when the house had a Header tank supplying the water...