Hi, I had an old fashioned light fitting in my living room and decided to get a new one. I've got the old style red and black wiring. I've wired it all up and the living room light works along with the back living room. However, the hallway light won't. I've checked the bulb and yes it does work. Can anybody help? I've attached a pick of how I've currently got it wired up. The wired with the cellotape on is the main power cable. Have I got my wires in the wrong order? Before I took the old ceiling rose off everything worked fine.
3 way ceiling rose
- Thread starter HOUSER1980
- Start date
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You have permanent live in the switch live connection and possibly switch live in the live loop.
All reds should be in the loop which is the middle connection block. And as you have not had a fuse blow i would say the black in the live loop is the switch live. So that would go to the live side of fitting not in loop. Then double check that all the other reds are making good contact in the loop terminal and no insulation is trapped or conductors are broken. Then do the same with the neutral conductors.
Cannot see any earth conductors, what class is the light, does it require earthing?
All reds should be in the loop which is the middle connection block. And as you have not had a fuse blow i would say the black in the live loop is the switch live. So that would go to the live side of fitting not in loop. Then double check that all the other reds are making good contact in the loop terminal and no insulation is trapped or conductors are broken. Then do the same with the neutral conductors.
Cannot see any earth conductors, what class is the light, does it require earthing?
can you lay your hands on a multimeter?
You might get one for about a tenner in a DIY shed or hardware shop, or somewhere like Halfords. Preferably a Digital Multimeter, it will probably have a rotating knob to change ranges, and a digital display rather than a moving needle.
BTW you do not appear to have any earth wires connected in your lighting circuit, so you must not use metal switches or light fittings, and you should be saving up for a rewire.
You might get one for about a tenner in a DIY shed or hardware shop, or somewhere like Halfords. Preferably a Digital Multimeter, it will probably have a rotating knob to change ranges, and a digital display rather than a moving needle.
BTW you do not appear to have any earth wires connected in your lighting circuit, so you must not use metal switches or light fittings, and you should be saving up for a rewire.
Hi, so are you saying the red in the live end and the black wire in the loop need swapping? I have no idea what class of light it is. It's a standard light fitting from B&Q, sorry,as u can tell I'm no electrician. It's just one I had spare. There are no earth wires. It's pretty old wiring.
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Everything is plastic JohnD. I know it needs a rewire, it's having the money though
Swap red and black, as that is what is normally expected.
Then check the terminals are making good contact with all conductors (IE no trapped insulation or broken conductors).
There are different classes of electrical accessories some must be earthed, if you have that type it needs to swapped to a double insulated fitting, that includes switches.
Then check the terminals are making good contact with all conductors (IE no trapped insulation or broken conductors).
There are different classes of electrical accessories some must be earthed, if you have that type it needs to swapped to a double insulated fitting, that includes switches.
If, and it's a big "if," the cable at 11 o'clock is the incoming supply, and the cable at 12 o'clock takes the supply to the next fitting, and the cable at 9 o'clock is the cable to the switch, then:
11 o'c red should be connected to 12 o'c red (permanent live)
11 o'c black should be connected to 12 o'c black (neutral)
That will provide supply to the next lamp on your circuit, and if there are no other errors, the next lamp should then work.
9 o'c red should be connected to 11 o'c and 12 o'c red (permanent live)
9 o'c black (Even though it is coloured black, it is live, not neutral) should have a red or brown sleeve round it (tape will fall off) identifying it a switched live, and should be in a separate terminal, connected only to the brown wire from your light fitting and nothing else. (switched live)
The blue wire should be connected to the Neutral terminal with 11 o'c black and 12 o'c black.
If you can lay your hands on a meter you can verify the assumptions.
You must of course turn off the power at the main switch before touching any of the wires or terminals. The light switch does not cut power to these lighting fittings.
11 o'c red should be connected to 12 o'c red (permanent live)
11 o'c black should be connected to 12 o'c black (neutral)
That will provide supply to the next lamp on your circuit, and if there are no other errors, the next lamp should then work.
9 o'c red should be connected to 11 o'c and 12 o'c red (permanent live)
9 o'c black (Even though it is coloured black, it is live, not neutral) should have a red or brown sleeve round it (tape will fall off) identifying it a switched live, and should be in a separate terminal, connected only to the brown wire from your light fitting and nothing else. (switched live)
The blue wire should be connected to the Neutral terminal with 11 o'c black and 12 o'c black.
If you can lay your hands on a meter you can verify the assumptions.
You must of course turn off the power at the main switch before touching any of the wires or terminals. The light switch does not cut power to these lighting fittings.
Thanks all will give it a go tmrw
Where's BAS?
Who is BAS?
Works perfect now PrenticeBoy
THANKS!!
THANKS!!
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