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Hi I think there must be a bearing going due to the increasingly loud noise made during spin cycles. I haven't taken a look yet but does anyone know the best way to dismantle and check whether front or rear bearing (I assume there will be play) need replacing. Thanks

Just found them on Plumbase site so will pop down tomorrow. http://www.plumbase.com/products/plumbing/wc_pan_connectors/ Thanks all!

So the multiquick 3.5" fitting may be the better option. I assume the other end willl fit a 4" pan connector without leeks? Any tips on cutting the clay pipe other than carefully? Thanks

It's internally lined. I guess it's more of a resin as it was pumped in to repair damaged clay pipes outside though I can see no evidence of cracks in this internal section that is now exposed. You can click on the picture to make it full screen if it helps?

Due to a leak caused by the top of the soil pipe crumbling and breaking away I want to repair using a straight connector. I have 2 issues: 1. The pipe will need to be cut in order for the final level to match existing and space is tight. I have a 4 1/2" angle grinder which may just...

Well I can offer you the free laugh but not at my wiring as it was something more stupid than that. I adjusted the on/off times for both HW & CH from the preset ones BUT forgot to copy the days for the full week so you know what's coming next don't you. I had only changed Monday's times...

It's a new install (month or so) and I wired it :oops: I assume both valves are opening as everything heats up. I only fitted the 2 channel timer today as I previously used an old timer (not a pensioner) which although you could select HW or CH had only one timer option for both. This is...

I have separate valves

My CH comes on with HW and vice versa, any ideas? I have a Honeywell 2 channel timer, Honeywell programmable room stat and Honeywell wiring centre. I don't mind the HW working with the CH as the towel rail runs from the primary so need it to be on when the CH is on but not the other way...

Hi Does anyone know if you can use non Glowworm timers and programmable stats with this model. I have a Honeywell CM907 programmable thermostat already which I'd prefer to use and so only need a timer. Anyone know if the options board is only needed for Glowworm accessories or as the basis...

When my dishwasher runs through it's various rinse cycles (not on initial fill though), it causes pipes to bang when it draws water. It's connected to a standard appliance valve on the cold water supply. Any thoughts? Many thanks

Thanks so much, that's next weekend planned then! All the best :D :D :D

Pump arrow points upwards. Assuming this is correct, I'll now go ahead and do the work. Thanks so much for your help. :D :D :D

I've attached the immersion pics. Unsure where the other pipe from the pump runs to. It appears to come up by the immersion and continue up into the loft???

Thanks for the diagrams, very useful. One question though remains about my existing programmer. If the CH isn't independantly governed by the programmer (ie. HW automatically fed when CH operational) then is it possible to use the room stat I bought or do I need to change the programmer first...

I've attached photo's as asked in album titled boiler. Does this help? Thanks

I think you're right in that CH cannot come on without HW as there is a single on/off time setting. HW can run alone but CH runs to time set for HW. Is it still worth looking a the back of the programmer; and does this make the use of my Stat impractical? I was going to fit a cylinder...

Looking at the Screwfix site, it looks similar to a Drayton LP112 though badged British Gas and only has 2 on/off settings. It's an old floor standing boiler with a single pipe central heating system. Yes it is old and I intend to replace full system but not until next year if I can help it...