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Good evening, need to replace my old cast iron soil stack including the bend at the bottom and a short length of clay pipe. I ideally need a black rest bend as the top of the horizontal pipe under the driveway is only 150mm below the finished surface of the drive (probs why the pipe is broken...

Well after having a day of decent weather, I re-visited this window. I did manage to get the weights out in the end. When I initially tried to remove them bottom first by lowering them down I could not get them out but today I tried rotating the weight 90 degrees and then it came out fine :)...

Thanks for the replies, I put the sash and staff beads (baton rods for those up north) back in on sat to make it secure and will have another look when we have another nice weekend (dunno how long that will be...). Being a cyclist I used a length of bike chain as a "mouse" :) I don't bother...

I don't think it is the parting bead because it is loose out of the groove and I pushed it to the side but still could not get the weight out, it seems to be the height of the pocket opening which is the problem rather than the width, ta.

They maybe the type of brick with 3 holes through them (a "perforated" brick), the holes vary in size but can be about 50mm in dia. It could be that you drilled into these holes.

Way too many variables to just give you a price. What material for a start, PVCu, aluminum, timber (hardwood or softwood?).

Currently trying to re-cord a sash and case window. I have opened up the pockets but cannot get the weights out! The pocket opening seems too short for the tall weights. The weight in the picture is sat on the cill, if I pull it up so the top of the weight is at the top of the opening, I can...

I had a similar experience glazing a small window, about 200mm square with mired beads. I could get 2 in dead easy, 3 was not too hard, but getting the 4th in was !@%#! Some window suppliers supply the beads scribed which I like much better! I managed to get it in in the end with brute force...

Just about to buy a house which has an upstairs window overlooking a sloping roof extension on the ground floor. The roof slope is perpendicular to the wall with the window. I was wondering what is the most practical/safe way of preparing and re-painting this window when it comes to it? I...

I'm not an expert but I would use epoxy resin mixed with some sand. Add just enough sand so it's still fairly runny and will flow into the hole.

You could install a new air brick higher up and use a periscope like device in the cavity, something like this: http://www.vents.co.uk/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/pufv_mfab_tc_0911-300x214.jpg

Hi, Just bought my first house, got the keys yesterday. One of the first things I did (after clearing out two car loads of junk left by previous owners) was to rip up the laminate flooring on the lounge. After I did that I promptly put my foot through the chipboard floor! Found my first...

Hello, Matt Allwright, BBC rogue traders.....

I highly doubt a 1 inch concrete floor laid onto earth will survive having a car driven onto it even once, and even if you don't put a car in it, it will almost certainly break up due to natual ground movement in a very short amount of time. A garage floor should be 100mm thick minimum, laid...

Does the "car parking space" have to be open air? Or could you fit a garage door or Bifolding door and park the car inside the extension?

Hip to gables are only PD if there is not a highway at the side of the house. I seem to remember reading a story where someone had to remove a hip to gable on an end terrace next to road as they did not realise this in advance.

The requirement for "simular matirials" in the PD guidence seems a bit vague. Just how "simular" does the matirial have to be? For example, finding bricks to match the original bricks my house is built from will be almost impossible. Just how simular do the bricks need to be? Also I am...

Foot and Light vehicular traffic (<3.5t). Yellow plastic gas pipe.

Currently Portland cement concrete driveway (although it looks more like crazy paving at the moment due to cracking), although this maybe replaced with block paving.

We have recently had our gas meter moved by National Grid. I had read previously that underground gas pipes should be at least 350mm deep. However while this pipe was being put in, before the trench was backfilled I measured the depth to be just 250mm. I mentioned this to the installer who...