Search results

FYI I am using a mixture of incandescents, halogens (low voltage) and a couple of mains halogens. There are quite a lot of bulbs and I will probably lower the wattage of some of the fittings anyway as there is too much light now with the new lighting arrangements anyway.

Seems the best option is to move one of the two rings that makes up the lighting to the second consumer box onto a 6 amp fuse (with RCD). The property is old and the wiring done perhaps 20 years ago with some upgrades. Thanks. Mr. Frisbee.

I have just had some building work done and a few more lights installed. This means that my 5 amp lighting circuit is drawing about 4.9amps and blows sometimes when all lights are on. There are only 2 rings into the fuse and no room to move one to another fuse (not easily). Simple...

This was my thoughts when I was told I may need a large (10 gallon) tank below the boiler. The tank that is there now is about 20 gallons and has a cast iron pump in it. The PRV will surely only blow off a minimal amount of water and there is always about 10 litres in the sump anyway that...

The plan is to let the PRV outlet into an existing sump (plastic) that has a pump in it which pumps out when levels are high. It is mainly there for flood protection. There is no plan to dig a well, just a small trough below the air intake of 10cm to give it clearance of 30 cm in total...

This only moves the plume, not the air intake.

Whoa guys... Too much jargon and conflicting with your own advice here. NCS? FGA? AR? Simple question, will dropping the concrete floor and adding a plume kit solve the problems or not? If not, what is the next best solution? Thanks, Charles.

Thanks, but as above, already using 45 degree exits. I am trying to do anything that will avoid the need to dig into the ground floor and create a small box for the extra 10cm needed.

Thanks for this info. The outlet is already exiting at 45 degrees and the flue more or less touches the underside of the ground floor, hence no room to move. Plume management will be fitted, floor under the air intake/flue exit, can be dropped by 10cm. I am hoping that this gets us close...

I called the manufacturer and they said the flue cannot be "turned" outside. They then called me back with their suggested solution of boxing it in outside.

The idea of boxing in outside was actually the manufacturers. Boiler is an Alpha CD50.

Not sure I quite follow this. The PRV will be into a sump pump tank that is already in the basement (see the white pipes in the picture above) or in a holding tank under the basement (less likely as it would not pump). There would also be a condensate pump put into the drain you can see...

Thanks for the quick replies. Here are some quick answers. 1. No, I do not live underground, the boiler does. 2. Plume management kit will be used to lift plume 2metres etc. 3. here is a picture of the current situation...

I am about to have a new combi fitted. Current flue is 20cm above ground level as it emerges from the property. Regulations specify this must be 30cm now but we have no height internally to raise the flue at all and the flue cannot be turned outside (as it is an internal flue only). So...

Project officially abandoned! It seems more trouble that it is worth. Charles.

The aim is to increase the litres per minute to at least 18 (which is the boiler heating capacity). Will it work and is this a big job?

I would like to increase the mains feed pipe sizes into my home from a 15mm to 22mm (aprox) and someone has suggested I use a contractor who can do "Trenchless" pipe replacement out to the street. As about 4 metres or so is under ground, this sounds like a magical solution if he can really...

This sounds an interesting option but do you think this is limited by manufacturer? Also, thanks for the other responses. However, lets agree the condensate goes to the special pump. Question still remains as to whether the existing sump is OK to take the blow off pipe. Buried in the...

I am about to have a new combi boiler installed in my basement and it is below the drain level. Fitter has suggested a condense pump up to the drains, but I already have 2 basement pump systems in place (one for the washing machine and one for possible flood damage. The flood pump and sump...