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If only all 'professionals' were as clued-up as their title would suggest? There are many threads on here where parts have be replaced to no avail, I thought it'd be a good idea to learn a little. Doesn't sound such a bad idea to me?.....simple boiler or not.

Thanks. If anyone would like to comment on the problem, I can confirm I will not be doing any work on the boiler myself. I'll leave that to a professional, but I'd still like to understand the problem for my self. Appreciate any thoughts?

Sorry. Didn't know this was not allowed. If it helps, when the boiler is working there are no problems with the gas side. I'm pretty sure it's an electrical fault but the fault-finding page in the instructions doesn't give much incite into the logic of the system.

The boiler runs for a while without fault before cutting out and not restarting for some time. Sometimes this might be a couple of hours. It gets to the stage where the fan should run, and it doesn't! I've tried to run through the fault-finding flow chart in the manual, but nothing conclusive...

You've probably already done the job now, but I thought i'd add my experience for anyone else who reads this post. I found (after much scraping and swearing) that if I put some paint remover (nitromors or similar) on some fine wire wool and rubbed, it came off a treat! Remember to wear...

Just had a look at Sikkens website, but it's pretty confusing! There are so many products that seem suitable, but I can't make out the differences? All the application methods seem to assume that you've either used the same product before and you are re-coating, or you are applying on fresh...

My wooden windows have been stained before with Cuprinol 5-Year wood stain, but some are now flaking. Does anyone have any recommendations as to what's the best products to use, and how far back to sand etc. ? Thanks

The nearest place to me is KalGlass, but seem pricey: 4mm Softcoat Planitherm / 4mm Clear Diamont Glass 20mm Cavity Warm edge spacer bar @ £92.59pm2 + Vat. £10 per unit extra for argon fill. At the other extreme is Oakland Glass in W.Yorkshire: 4mm Clear / 4mm Low E (G Fast) - £28m2 +Vat, +...

OK, thanks. I had thought of putting some beading on the inside anyway, purely as a cosmetic thing. On the outside i'm probably going to use some 34mm D-shaped timber, covering both the glass and the frame. This way, I can have a 28mm sealed unit that nearly fills the existing rebait. This is...

Thanks for the pdf about adapting timber frames. It's pretty much what I want to do. My only concern is about fixing using the glazing tape on the inside. My rebait is only 12.5mm high, so with the recommended 5mm spacer block, i'll be sticking mostly to the sealed unit's edging tape (about 8mm...

Very useful links. I know a lot more now, than I did when I started! Thanks for your help. Do you think that in a reasonably thin unit (4x12x4) it would be worth the extra for argon fill?

Thanks for your input Squowse. You say only using security tape on the downstairs. What would you use elsewhere? Are there different types of tape? Also, what would be the best way of getting proper ventilation to the sealed units?

Hi, I'm looking to replace all my failed DG units. The frames are still in good condition, but the existing sealed units are quite thin at 12mm (3x6x3). The windows have a 15mm external beading, and approximately 2mm of putty on either sides. Basically I have a 31mm rebate to play with. If I...