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To close this one off I thought I'd have a go with one of the "squeeze top-bottom" blanking modules in an empty board. You can't get them out. Even with all the room on the side, putting my fingers in the CU via the other gaps (which you wouldn't normally do of course) you can't get them off...

Ahh... I didn't see that coming. Maybe that's why I keep a stock of these: https://www.toolstation.com/mk-mcb/p11078 Edit: just realised they're on clearance (sigh). OK these then: https://www.screwfix.com/p/british-general-fortress-abs-plastic-consumer-unit-blank/5390p, or whatever looks...

You just need one of these. In fact, any manufacturer will do as the aperature of the fuse carriers/MCBs is the same, as is the DIN rail. MK and Schneiders are prettier I think. It's busbars that change. And I doubt anyone will complain about type testing.

It’s not the white wire on the right, looped back through the black cable clip, is it? He might have tucked it there for stowing. It will be there somewhere.

He's self-isolating with his missus (who's much older than him and in her 70s, as he kept reminding us). No dremel so multitool instead, but jobs a good-un.

My builder's plumber accidentally removed the wrong radiator. We were due to have a new one anyway (at the time undecided) so I let him just cap it. Problem is I don't know how to get these off without cutting them. What's the method? Thanks Mike

I'm going with cheap charger with a manufacturer trying to make sure it lasts the warranty. And something to argue the warranty on for both charger and battery. So nothing to do with functionality.

I forgot Bernard's solution - yes we have that in the other bathroom, just a pipe stat (this one in fact: https://www.screwfix.com/p/drayton-pts1-pipe-thermostat/2395r) set slightly higher at 35 deg to protect against hot weather. I didn't use it in the en suite as the primary driver is...

https://www.rapidonline.com/measurement-specialities-fs-10-meas-copper-bodied-flow-switch-61-1358 I’ve bought it but yet to use it (just doing an en suite). Why do you think you need SELV? Is this going to be exposed in the bathroom?

It sounds like we need to discuss this as a separate topic :LOL:

He was referring to gas/building regulations I assume? https://www.gassaferegister.co.uk/media/2194/tb-005-a-gas-cookers-in-internal-kitchens-eng-wales-iom-and-guernsey-vent-requirements.pdf

You shouldn't mix different colours like that in my opinion, the person who told you to do so hasn't got a clue about safety and consistency.

Well, if you have a house with a load of CH pipes direct buried in screed (it happens) then it could be an issue. But it would be a very dry earth, and you'd find out when the floor got wet due to the concrete attacking the copper.

They all do!

I've pondered this in my own property, and although testing it as you would an earth rod would confirm whether a 50V touch potential were likely, with the amount of intended and accidental bonding in bathrooms, boilers and kitchens, I think it would be virtually impossible to confirm that the...

I think it’s too thin to be alkathene, unless it’s got a really small bore.

Scrape off some of those layers of paint from the top with a Stanley knife blade and the pins will reach further.

What makes an 1100mm high window harder to get out of with a 900mm high flat surface in front of it? And what regulation disallows such practise?

I was suggesting that a kitchen worktop in front of an escape window is far more compliant than people placing dressers with fixed mirrors in upstairs windows, which is/was a common sight. Quite how did my comment come across as meaning I thought such dressers were a good idea?