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So in the JB you have Leg A of the ring Leg B of the ring A feed off to the CH (which I imagine would be an FCU at the other end?) Right. That is a compliant spur. By the book, no, you can't spur again from the JB, as you're only allowed one spur from a single point on a ring final...

Is the oven and grill a combined unit? Are you sure that it says MINIMUM fuse rating 25amps (not maximum!)? If it's OK on a 30 or 32amp OPD, then you'd go: CU-->Cooker switch-->DOUBLE cooker outlet plate Then a flex to the oven/grill and A flex to the hob

What kind of fuse is it? 45amps is near the limit for 6mm cable clipped direct, it's too much if the cable is in conduit, bunched with other cables, touching thermal insulation etc. 30/32a would be a much better choice of OPD for the circuit, and will be sufficient for your appliances...

There is only one supply in to the JB. This is therefore a spur from the RFC The JB then supplies TWO accessories, which is NOT allowed. You can use a JB within the ring to create a spur (it doesn't have to be from the back of a socket), but the spur can still only feed ONE accessory...

No problem Morg, glad I could make things a bit easier for you! :) Have you used SWA cable before? If you're not used to it, it can be a bit tricky to terminate. Here's an excellent guide, and I recommend you get an extra gland or two and practise on a spare bit of cable before you go for it.

Have a read of this thread here here. and study the various diagrams for two-way switching. As you will see there are various different ways to do two-way switching, which is why it is crucial that we ascertain exactly where each wire goes. Check these links out for the basics of your...

I use a separate DTMF keypad.

YES! DO ALL THIS WITH THE MAIN SWITCH OFF! We are not testing for voltage, but testing for continuity (ie testing the resistance) from one end of a wire to the other. The meter provides it's own power for this.

Correct. Correct. Correct. :) Let's make sure switchplate 1 to 2 (LH) is correct before we go any further. You may also need access to the light fittings (got a stepladder?) Sod's law eh? :roll:

That don't make no sense boy! :lol: Do you mean: 1. A feed IN from the final circuit 2. A supply OUT to the socket 3. A supply OUT to the CH :?: If so, this is already a spur, and it already feeds two accessories (socket and CH) and is thus non-compliant before you do anything...

Yep. They're well trained and well paid for that very reason. Although they normally work as a pair in case something does go wrong - must be the credit crunch... :roll:

RCBO. Every line conductor fed by the RCBO its neutral MUST return to it. It'd be tripping all over the shop otherwise! -----EDIT Too slow! :twisted:

So you mean continuity testing between N and E on the service head? (As opposed to loop testing between P & E?) Yes. If you got a reading of zero that would tell you that E was connected to N inside the head. Are you a professional electrician?

What are you saying? What do you mean "Testing between P&N for earth"? That makes no sense.

Game on. Power off. Get your meter and set it to the ohms scale (omega symbol). Touch the probes together and it should read close to zero. Go to the first switch plate and remove it completely. Put the red in to a terminal block, and the (stripped!) bell wire in the other side of the...

Because doing what you say would show nothing other than show that there's continuity between phase and neutral. It shows nothing of the earthing arrangement. You could be on the end of several miles of supply cable, with the only earth rod being back at the distro transformer. That is not...

I think you mean test the Ze between the Phase and Earth terminals directly on the head - by means of shoving a probe in the earth hole! Testing between Phase and Neutral tells you nothing about Ze. At all. Ever. So if you did as you say on this installation and got 0.2ohms, would you say...

Mate mate mate mate MATE! You are making things much more awkward (and expensive) than they need to be by your insistence that the FCU can't be fitted indoors. If your decor and wall type make it such a struggle how about: 1) Surface mounted? Not the prettiest, but not the end of the world...

But realistically you should be safe as long as you leave the MCB for the faulty circuit OFF (or 'trip switch' as you incorrectly keep calling it) What does the MCB say on it? "B32"?

:?: :?: :?: That's how I contact them anyway... :idea: