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I have a glass sided stair with 17mm thick laminated glass. I want to fit a stair rail. I'm thinking the best way is to cut a slot that's 19mm wide and (say) 20mm deep and epoxy the rails to the top of the glass. The rail I have chosen is basically a 54mm diameter pole with a 25mm flat on...

I'm shortly moving into the property constructed using SIPS Here's the detail of the walls: How should I attach stuff like shelves, TV mounting brackets, aerials etc.. given this construction technique. Thanks, David

I'm moving to house that is primarily constructed using SIPS. If I want to attach the mast for a TV aerial to the outside of the house what should I use to ensure it is solidly fastened and so that the SIPS are not compromised. Similar questions for fastening potentially heavy stuff like...

The time clock on its own was about £100 :(

Hmmm its a 20 way (10 in each layer) unit. I recently had to change the Time clock in the lower half and that fitted OK without needing to do surgery on the opening. Just changing the items I listed in my initial post would cost around £60 plus VAT. I doubt I'd get a 21 way split unit...

Except it's a double CU so prefer not to replace, you are only seeing one of two rows. Yes they are mounted on a standard DIN rail. As for isolation yes I have an external 100A isolator before the CUs (yes there's another one as well as this double row one).

I have an old MK Sentry Consumer unit fitted with LN59xx MCBs: I want to replace the LN5905 5A MCBs with H6832s (6A, 30mA, Type A) RCBOs so that the lighting circuits are RCD protected (given that I cannot find an RCD to fit this CU). I can see that the busbar isn't compatible, so I will...

Rating plate saith 3000W :(

No I fear not - if you're referring to option C7 on page 16 - it still limits to 3KW even if I set it to 4.5kW David

It has been used for a month or so. Only noticed the problem yesterday when I wanted to heat three pans at the same time and it went into power-limit mode. As in title this model is PWP631BF1B ...

I recently bought one of these induction hobs that came with a 13A plug fitted. I have it wired in properly (6mm T&E). However it still power limits to 3000W :( Bosch do a variant (PWP631BB1E) of which I was unaware, that is rated for 4.6kW (20A supply). AFAICT the power limit is the only...

Image here: I finally found (at B&Q of all places) a Fluidmaster push button dual flush unit that said it fitted 2" and 1.5" outlets. I bought it and even though the hole in the cistern base is nominally a bit larger than the standard for 2" outlet units, it did fit! While not quite...

Dave

I have an old (Shanks) cistern with an bottom exit hole that is 2½" in diameter and the flush pipe is about 1 5/8" diameter. This isn't a simple case of fitting a new diaphragm, this one uses a disc that slides up and down the shaft inside the bell. The hole at the top of the bell through...

Timer came back from BER, all works well.

I replaced the coil on the solenoid valve that had failed, and the timer PCB has gone off to QER to see if they can fix it. Only other source for the timer (Smeg p/n 696290705) I can find is Servevast (Smeg Service) who want about £133 for it. UK Whitegoods shop says not stocked any more ...

One of the gate resistors (R38) on the PCB was toast and the triac (Q8) was shorted MT2 to Gate. I replaced the blown triac and resistor on the control board, and put it all back together. Now none of the lights on the front panel come on apart from the mains indicator. Looking at the...

I've checked both, and neither the main pump, nor the drain pump are jammed. The motor start capacitor on the main pump is good. Some of the clunking noises seem to be coming from the solenoid next to the pressure switch. I suppose it could be a dodgy water inlet valve (the one on the...

Main pump or drain pump?