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Hi Leccy - thanks for your reply. By 'cutting out' I mean that the machine starts the cycle normally and then, after a variable period which could seconds, minutes or 90% of the cycle, the machine stops and the timer shows the cycle time (as in 1.20 for a Synthetics 40 degree wash) and light...

Try an hire a Makita 4191DWD 12V Cordless Tile Cutter. That will do the job. If you want to look at one here is a link - http://www.tradetiler.com/acatalog/Makita_Cordless_cutter_and_Accessories.html

Hi All My washing machine has been cutting out on me a lot recently. In fact, it's been just stopping most of the time I've tried to use it. Sometimes it gets a couple of minutes into the cycle and other timess it only goes for a few seconds. On the odd occasion it gets all the way through...

Not if the door is hung to open outwards and so the slammer is on the other side of the door to the tiles. BUT............... ............then the tiles on the hinge side of the door would need to have a helluva gap between them and the tiles that are where the architrave should be to allow...

Were the tiles on the display grouted? If they were - check for cracking. If they weren't - now you know why not!!

Good news! Glad to hear it went Ok.

As the two previous posters have said, in an ideal world, tiling the complete floor gives an overall nicer finish especially if you are prepared to go to the expense of taking off the skirting and architrave and then replacing them over the tiles so as to avoid any potentially unsightly grout...

I've laid these tiles more than once. They're a 200mm x 200mm tile similar to (I think?!?) the Porcelanosa ones that have got cut grooves instead of white lines separating the individual mosaics. Sadly, however, that is as far as the mists of time will allow me to look back. My gut feeling...

I think we'll have to disagree on this one JC - if for no other reason than I think you and I are looking at it from different directions. You are correct in saying that Fastflex is not designed nor intended to take up lots of flex in the substrate but it is supposed to be able to withstand...

I reckon the best thing to do is to just dig it out and have a look. It's probably the best thing to do all round. Let us know what it is..........I love a good mystery.

There probably isn't a pro on here who hasn't grouted a few live tiles (or, at least, ones that didn't move when blown on). From the sounds of it most of the work will have been sitting for the required 24hrs anyway, it'll only be the tiles you've laid at the end of the job that may still...

Can you expand a bit? Did you do the tiling? Are you sure it's a plasterboard wall or could it be something else? Look under the shower tray if you can gain access. Does the tile look like it has been replaced at some time or is it probably one of the original tiles? Have you tried...

You shouldn't have any problem with the tile adhesive and the tanking reacting. They are, after all, supposed to work together. As for fitting the bath panels first this, IMHO is a real No, No! And depending upon the type of situation you've got and panels you're using, the no's increase...

Mike - looks like we cross-posted. There aren't really any down sides to doing the tanking apart from the money, the work, the mess, trying to get the polymer off you hands etc. Apart from that there's nothing to it. I guess we pro's just don't like to stray from the norm too much. Perhaps...

Just make sure that you feather the tiles gradually over three or four (vertical) courses so as the difference in levels won't be seen. The only problem you may have with this is, if you stop the tanking at the end of the bath and the wall past the bath drops to the floor, you will need to...

Easiest way to balance it all out is to mark the height of each horizontal level of interest in one column on one of the walls. That way you can get an idea of where to start by 'picking a point' and then working up and down from it and seeing how each cut turns out with the various options you...

Generally I'd agree with the previous poster but ............if you are really set on doing it you could try using BAL Fastflex or silicone to stick them on with. But, either way, you're taking a chance. Just a thought. Regards Paul Eamonn

Last time I look H&R Johnson aka Cristal Tiles were still making them. Regards Paul Eamonn.

Your best bet would be to look on the tin. It'll say if the adhesive is Ok to use on concrete. If it doesn't - take the hint!! On the whole though you'll probably find that it'll do the job - may even be a bit of overkill as the flexibel adhesive is likely a better quality than a normal...

I wouldn't recommend anything other than grey grout on the floor. Beige/Ivory will go dirty and you'll be unable to clean it because any cleaner worth using will have some sort of bleaching agent in it. So your grout will end up white'ish anyway and still look grubby. Anyway, from the...