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I replaced the syncron motor only. I'll have to get a plumber to change the valve then as presumably I'd have to drain the system down

That crossed my mind but the motorised valve does flick over when the hot water is turned on. That means the controllers requesting hot water right?

Update: After I fitted the new motor it worked for 3 months then started to play up. I then fitted a genuine Honeywell motor which worked for a month or so before occasionally giving no hot water. I've found today that if I flick the controller between off and on a few times it will start the...

I'll fit a new valve switch and update. Thanks.

The motorised HW valve turns on an off with the programmer, I have also tried it in manual mode too.

I'm running a conventional potterton Netaheat boiler. The hot water won't warm up unless the heating thermostat clicks on. I flushed my heating about a month ago if it helps. The motorised valves both appear to work as they should. Is it possible to get air in the hot water system causing the...

All sorted. I had to shut off the rad valves and bleed the pipes either side, then run a lot of water out of the drain valve below the radiator. Not really what I wanted to do having just filled the system with Ferox F3 cleaner :(

Balancing is fine. I even turned all the other manual valves off to just supply the cold rad and turned the pump up to full but no joy.

Ok so I drained and flushed my whole central heating system. The system had 3 drain valves which I drained and also drained all the rads. All went well but the last rad won't heat up. All rads are bled and the drain valve below the last rad runs hot water, so it's going through the rad with...

I'll do that next time it happens :)

I read it was built into the thermostat. //www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=104442

PCB was replaced last week due to a different issue but I would now like this one sorting as its been going on long enough. I'm thinking maybe a synchron motor is failing causing the pump to stay on but because the fault is rare it's going to be hard to test.

I have a netaheat 16/22 which has an intermittent fault where the pump runs continuously. The fault is hard to trace as it does it maybe once or twice a week. I can turn the boiler off at the thermostat but the pump keeps running until the next scheduled start has finished. The only way I can...

I'll bare that in mind next time but I just wanted a fix and the seller stated if the board had been DIY tampered with they wouldn't accept an exchange. I paid £42.50 Inc postage and my old PCB in exchange.

It looks like it could have been dried out solder to me as I took the board out and it would only part light the burners, I had to leave the board at an angle on the pegs to get it to work again. I think a reflow would get the board back to full working order but I'm not capable enough lol...

I've not had an engineers out but it looks like its the PCB. With the bottom cover off the boiler if you tap the PCB once it ignites every time. Recon PCB ordered. Hope this helps someone else.

I've just checked, it looks like the pilot light isn't firing up when the boiler doesn't work, the spark is there though.

Thanks I did wonder if it was a dodgy PCB but who knows.

Hopefully someone can help. We have an old 10-16 boiler and it has an intermittent fault. The boiler will start and run as normal but sometimes the fan keeps running and the spark keeps trying to ignite but nothing happens. I've smelt the flue exhaust thing but cannot smell gas so I presume...