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Loving the pseudo expansion vessel, and the idea of a vacuum filled with something, in this case water vapour. Maybe there's loads of water vapour in space - that's a vacuum. But I have to take issue with the idea that the DHW is not heated until a tap is opened. Obviously not correct. Another...

Yeah but how can you assume enough nitrogen oxides are being regenerated to enable the reaction chain to produce sulphuric acid, assuming it's a standard domestic pressure jet burner? What mechanism do you propose to explain the pattern of the sulphuric acid attack - ie only the bottom inch of...

Hang on, bernardgreen, didn't you did leap in and misdiagnose the situation only a few short posts ago, getting the chemistry wrong for good measure (hint: it's not sulphuric acid)

No my feeling is it's not a problem with the boiler. It sounds to me like if the boiler gets 240v it will all run as it should, therefore my question (assuming nothing) is, is it indeed getting 240v? As it's a Y plan, is it wired up properly, which you might not notice if you fault find with a...

If it's a classical S plan then I think that parameter should be set to 3. Setting it to 1 is for when you wire a cylinder sensor or thermostat directly to the boiler, which I'm guessing hasn't been done. It's now expecting something to be connected across a couple of terminals to signal that it...

A good starting point for the heating curve is 2.5. Once you have the target room temperature set how you want it and you're not fiddling with TRVs all the time you might try lower heating curve value until you feel the house isn't heating up enough. If the VRC430 is on the wall not in the...

Heat actually gets into the room via convection rather than radiation so as long as airflow in to the bottom and out of the top isn't restricted it should be okay. The text book answer is not to have rads opposite windows because you get air currents similar to the North Atlantic Drift but I've...

Of course your original installer might have put one of these on http://www.worcester-bosch.co.uk/installer/boilers/gas-boilers/greenstar-28i-junior/accessories?accessory_id=214 in which case you're laughing

If you needed supplementary bonding, you would want one of these round each copper pipe, linked together. (You can usually get away without doing the safety vent pipe) You don't need to have an electrician do it. http://www.screwfix.com/p/earth-clamp-ec16-pack-of-5/78314 Normally people link...

Are the bits that fix to the wall too far apart? You might need to drill a new hole for one screw. Or, if you pop the covers off, are there slots rather than holes for the fixing screws, and can you just loosen the screws, push it all together then tighten the screws again?