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Engineered joists do not require doubling up underneath stud walls, only the use of partition noggins. They look like they have been installed from the pictures. No herringbone struttting or solid strutting for I-beam Engineered joists are required either. My guess would would be that...

For fixings, square twist nails always. screws sheer easily and should never be used. You will need 150mm air gap underneath the floor and insulate between the joists with foil backed insulation (celotex or kingspan) is commonly used wich can be friction fitted.

I'd use 22mm chipboard flooring but go for a phenolic faced chipboard (Egger Protect or Cabershield) with D4 adhesive glued and screwed. When used with D4 glue and fitted properly this is far more water resistant than standard P5 chipboard.

Proctor is just a brand of acoustic battens, there are many forms available at a range of different sizes. I wouldnt worry to much about the width, it would be the depth that is crucial.

Actually headroom for landing area in a loft conversion can be as low as 1.9mts. Although most bco say 2.0mts you can get away with 1.9mt.

Yes they can be, although generally, you will find most traditional joists are specified at 400mm centres, 600mm centres are more commonly used in engineered joists (I joist or open web).

You could use a phenolic faced chipboard T&G flooring such as Weyroc 'Protect' or 'Cabershield' (these are brand names). Both have a waterproof protected face which are alot better than normal P5 chipboard flooring. Go for 22mm thick even if joists are at 400mm centres. Use either of them...

What span and height would you be looking at ?

220mm will be a 215mm wall which is 2 brick with approx 15mm gap.

You could look at going a grade higher than C24, TR26 ? It may give you that bit extra assurance your after rather than having to double. However, Tony's advice of asking who ever is supplying the glazing what the max deflection is would make the decision alot easier. ?!?

Yes there is a hanger and quite rightfully as woody pointed out, Simpsons make them. They aint cheap though Again though, why would you want too?

Can you give a bit more details ? Sketch perhaps ? Where the hole is and what you want to do ? Might be able to suggest something and give you a detail possibly to get a loft ladder in. The only thing you can not do is cut any of the uprights.. As for storage, common sense always...

Exactly, most roofers/joiners dont get chance to even price the larger sites. Its the House builders who dictate how much money is in the pot to; put the roof up, or tile the roof. So naturally they throw it up as quick as they can and this is where the poor quality/workmanship comes in to it.

TBH we never price steel, I was always taught to sell what we have :D And Yeah i know what your saying Freddy, we all know nothing is free in this world. It just looks better when your given a price for the beam and thats it. Rather than having to shell out for a SE calc and then the...

If costs are trying to be kept down, then a laminated beam could be designed as a central ridge beam (dependant on the depth). It would also negate the need for a costly structural engineer to size it up, as its common practice for roof truss manufacturers to be able to size up glulam within the...

That link isnt working for me. Surprisingly though I am quite familiar with ITW's spacejoists. The only details in their technical guides are for perimeter/partition details. They are noggins, although not for stopping the twist. :D

I cant comment on the detailing part, as i only design roofs/floors. But from a roof perspective, I know I could quite easily design a flat topped roof that would be very simple to fit on site. The only cut in work would be the loose rafters/ceiling joists on the hip corners. Maybe a little...

Noggins are not a requirement for I-beams or any engineered joist. Nor is any form of herringbone strutting. That's from my experience as a I-beam/open web joist & Roof designer.

From a build perspective, a flat roof section wouldnt be that difficult if the roof was designed in trusses. Mono Flat tops running into the existing with a little make up on the hips etc. Fairly simple in all honesty, the only difficult part would be getting the planes to match through...

I cant see any problems with air tightness with a raised tie truss. You wouldnt see any physical evidence of movement in the roof even with it fully tiled. The roof could move over time, ie after a large snowfall, however it would be minimal that there would be no obvious signs. Certainly none...