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I'd go with Zampa, I tend to use a long blade like that used for a snap blade to slice. Forget non-drip anything. Buy trade paint - I don't know tradesmen that use non-drip. Cait

There is a question here ....what is a pro? Is this guy time served? Have you employed a reputable firm that have trade association back-up? Have you checked to see if they have public liability? Have you a quote or estimate in writing? Have you an outline of works from them that describes...

You've lost me Zampa????

How wide a beam, how long a beam, how rough the surface, how well prepped a surface, how much experience have you got working with glazes, will you tape up or try to cut in?????????? PG, I can't tell you how long it will take for you. If you've never done glaze work before, allow for taping...

Hi there, I don't normally work on this type of thing or with cellulose paints or clear-coats so I need advice from anyone who does. I have a good friend who is restoring a bar. He has bought a great big slice of kiln dried wood straight off the tree and is hoping to a/.keep the wainy edge with...

I think you might be better served by posting this to the woodworking forum on this site, however I reckon that this is a bit of a "how long is a bit of string question". The fitters that I work with charge about £200 a day. I think, like most of the trades that much of it depends on how...

Papergirl, Ask them what colour/type of wood they want done. If they can show you look at the palest colour in the timber then match that as a basecoat. Paint the beams in this colour in eggshell. Go to the suppliers and buy Ratcliffes oil scumble, less than £5 for a 250ml tin which will go...

I've seen it happen a couple of times. Crackle that looks like porcelain usually is caused by the paint underneath drying faster than the top layer, just wondering if you could have washed the walls down with something like white spirit that caused the layer underneath to soften. Could be that...

Try Purdy Monarch Pro Extras...think it's Monarch, it's got a blueish tinge to the bristle, synthetic but a bit stiffer than the Elite's, stiff enough to use for egghsell. BIN always creeps under mask tape. Cait

Papergirl...you might benefit from taking a look at the Zinsser products to tie back that powdery ceiling, various of the products will do the job...my new favourite at the moment is a product called Gardz. It penetrates through water based products and binds them up if there is a problem...

Yes I'm sure..try refreshing this page and watch the words at the bottom of the page saying Adviva as it loads. Oh that and I have a blocker which says "we have blocked the download of Adviva" or Avenue A alternately as I refresh.... depends how you come in to the page but both lots are...

I think that you haven't had any replies because the project is so big and the time limit is so short and you've kind of got so many issues to deal with here that it seems impossible. First off I think I would advise you to take a step back and reassess your time frame. I admire your intention...

What's with the spyware coming off this site?..NOT GOOD. Adviva and Avenue A...just clogs my system and everyone elses. Somebody turn it off. Cait

Nstreet is right, CYAWP (cover your a** with paper). Make sure that they sign a contract. In the terms and conditions of the contract you need to put in a bit about extras but on top of that I have an Extra's/Variation Order book. I write out what extras/changes are over and above the original...

Yes they use Zinsser products, there's also an amber shellac produced by Zinsser but it's not the same as our knotting fluid...but then again, a bit like here, most of the trade just ignore the knots and plough on with primer undercoat and b~~~~~r the consequences...as long as looks OK when they...

Nope, it's like little bits of expanded foam on your ceiling...kind of like the stuff that blown vinyl is made from - styrene, or you can get it in another version which is like kitty litter mixed in the paint - looks like sandtex but more sparcely spread sand bits and much bigger..... even...

Zampa's idea is definitely the quickest and uses the least material and time but personally I don't particularly like the look of just varnished MDF. You could also try staining the timber with wood dye before varnishing, that would hide the MDF "look" of the things. If you have screws that...

Technically, you need to remove the rest of the paper from the plaster board - it's probably a backing paper from vinyl - and this should come off easily if you soak it well with water and sugar soap and scrape it off...that is, if the plasterboard was "sized" before the paper went up. Then you...

given that we don't have popcorn here in UK, I reckon you might be in the wrong place..unless some of the US folk speak up here. Cait