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Moisture (uk climate) will kill the appearance of it fairly quickly, but silicone type although more expensive may fare slightly better and at least wouldn’t need painting the first time. I’d line the back side of the wall with dpm and keep the render off the ground to give it a slightly better...

Doubt you’d get away with much less than 100mm PIR if you’re doing it to building regs

Should be, although looks like the hopper would need to move. and include an access cap for that long horizontal run

I assumed the fact that I’m draining it to a soakaway within my garden means it’s suds complaint

Thanks - mines draining to a soakaway I’ve dug, does that mean I’m ok with sharp sand? Any pros and cons of each? Was planning on doing sharp sand but always open to options

Thanks all. I’ve got the string line out and it’s only really significant (100mm dip) in one place - the rest is within 20-30mm of the line. So I’ll just adjust the MOT as needed when I get to that point. But I’ll set all my kerbs to a line and not attempt to have them follow any dip/contour. (y)

Thanks. Do you mean never have it shaped like my black line, but you could have a ramp/incline if needed?

Yeah, all good points, and I think I’ve still worded my original question badly! Basically, if you assume the bedding layer is a consistent 40mm or whatever, am I better with my finished job following the black line (cambered) or the blue line (totally flat)? I’m pretty sure the blue line is...

Thanks. I guess what I’m trying to ask is, currently the compacted MOT follows the natural camber of the previous drive, but am I better off filling the middle out with more MOT to make it flat as per the blue line? I’m kinda thinking either would work, but if I fill it out it’ll make for much...

Yet another block paving question I’m afraid. A few years ago I put type 1 down on my drive and compacted it, but left it as-is. I’m now looking at block paving it and getting my edgings and levels in place, but the natural contour of the type1 is a bit “dished” ie the sides have a slight bank...

Ah, checked the product spec and it isn’t a trap. Which means I can’t see an easy way of also incorporating a trap which allows access to clear it. I guess if it’s going to a soakaway it doesn’t need a trap anyway?

I’d be using this, do you think it’s trapped? I’m assuming it is. https://www.drainagesuperstore.co.uk/product/aco-hexdrain-sump-unit-.html

I get loads of leaves and can easily site a silt trap so I think I’ll put one in (not cheap are they!) thanks both

Sorry for my third soakaway post of the day, but any idea if I should be fitting a silt trap between the aco drain taking run off from what will be my new block paved drive, and the soakaway I’ve dug which will be lined with geotextile and filled with rubble? I’ve done similar before and not...

Sorry, shouldn’t really have posted about the same thing in 2 threads - admin/mods please delete

Ok just to wrap this one up, I can do 5m from house, 4m from road (kerb) and 3m from an acer tree. Reckon that’s a goer? Cheers

How did this one pan out Andy? Got exactly the same issue, I’m ready to block pave, and can put a soakaway in 5m from house but it’d be close to the front wall/pavement. Tempted to just run it into the existing storm drain but don’t want to risk being told to redo it if someone dobbed me in.

I'm replacing about 20m2 of tarmac drive with block paving. Existing drainage is into a rainwater gulley by the house. I had planned to dig a soakaway, as per the rules, and have an Aco drain take the block paving run-off and pipe to the soakaway. However I've just realised that a soakaway needs...

I’d just cut the piece and see how it looks. Personally I wouldn’t do anything involving filler.

If there’s already a foundation, and it gets exposed to show its thickness and width, which is a bit of digging for say an hour or so, and they OK it, then you can build off it.