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Spot on

Have you got a multimeter Alan ? One of the 2 black wires that are together in the same terminal is a switched live.

You showed us a picture of red ,black ,and unsleeved copper wires in a connector block. Did you make those connections into the connector blocks terminals ? If you did,you have done it wrong and connected the switched live to a neutral

Did you connect the wiring into the connector block in your pic ? If so ,you have probably mixed up the neutrals with the switched live

If there is ,you would need to be fully versed in electronics ,but I am not unfortunately.

Sunrays answered your question of what to connect at switch ,black wire into L2 ??

Possible PCB faulty

Test the solenoid, resistance should be around 4.9 ohms. Apologies for the typo meant to type 3.9. Thanks to Johntheo5 for the correction.

You do realise that the captive nut can be moved upwards,away from the valve ,so the mating surfaces of the valve and tail come into contact with each other before the nut is lowered onto the thread of the valve ?

I can't see why you need tail extensions ,that would require you to put the mounting brackets ( I assume there are 4) in completely new ,higher, positions wouldn't it ? If you assemble the brackets onto the rad and position the rad onto the valves, mark the wall with bracket positions,then...

Sounds like a workable plan.

The new switch needs to be earthed. The earth conductors that are currently terminated in the mounting box need to be connected to the earth terminal of the switchplate ,with a flying earth wire linking between the switchplate and mounting box earth terminals.

The brackets that hold the radiator can often be lowered by approximately 5 or 6 millimetres,as they have an elongated slot , through which the screw that holds the bracket to the wall fits. This allows several millimetres of adjustment. Also ,is the pipework copper or plastic microbore ?

Can't you alter the brackets ?

Can you show us a pic of the actual shower unit and your incoming cable / earth wires ?

I doubt there would be any appreciable difference in flow.

That's an automatic air vent ,not a pressure relief valve. Is it permanently leaking ,non stop ? If so replace it.

You could try draining and refilling,if that fails back fill the system with mains cold water. What do you mean by " bib piping " ?

Did you clean out the f&e tank before draining down ? Which radiators are not full of water ,are they on a higher floor level than rads that did fill ?

Lost count of the amount of times that I have seen copper pipes that have leaked buried in concrete.