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The ones that were tight I have now shortened. Just used a trusty tenon saw.

Yes you dare ask. The boards were eventually purchased from a company called Boards who are now part of Naylor Myers Builders Merchants. They are "bog standard" 25 x 125 mm T & G Redwood or at least that is what it said on the receipt. I left the wood a week in the room and have now...

Thanks Wood. Of course it makes sence not to take it off the truck and nail it down. It's all arrived this morning so is now sat in the living room - acclimatizing. Thanks Bobbler

Thanks for that. Do you not think that the boards will shrink and make gaps even if the wood is left in the room for a month before laying?

Wood. That's solved the problem. My floor will be nailed down, therefore not floating therefore no foam. Might use some paper felt if I knew where to get it. Joe. There seems to be a great debate on the "leave the wood to settle in the room for a week". I will, but what difference a week is...

Now I am confused. One sage says use a foam underlay, the other not. Here are the facts: The floorboard is arriving on Tuesday, and although I do not think it will make any difference in the end I will leave it in the room for the best part of the week. Where the boards will run in the...

Wood, Thanks for the advise. I think that the foam underlay will suffice. Thanks Bobbler

Thanks for the advise, but can anyone answer my previous questions: "Floor is level, not cupped but half the floor will go in the same direction. I am also not keen on raising the level of the floor much more than the thickness of a floorboard - 22mm - so I would want to do away with using a...

There is no need to pull up the old ones as they will act as the first line of defense against draughts etc. Plus, where the old fireplace is I could not make a better job by removing them. Plus an insulating layer would help as well. What is the argument for removing and replacing?

Thanks for that Wood. Floor is level, not cupped but half the floor will go in the same direction. I am also not keen on raising the level of the floor much more than the thickness of a floorboard - 22mm - so I would want to do away with using a plywood if possible. What disasters are bound...

I have read a similar answer to a similar question posted in 2006 but thought that I would start a fresh thread as the last became a slanging match. We were going to sand and varnish the boards in our living room, but we are now coming to the following conclusions. Due to the room being made...

Thanks RF Lighting for that. I do appreciate it. To the layman it can be quite complicated though. Many thanks Bobbler.

If you think that insulating the wire more and running it through a conduit would be a good idea then I will. I may need to take a brick out which will be as easy as drilling I think. Again thanks for the advise. Can anyone expand on the "safe zone"?? This may be an example to "all you...

Thanks Securespark, that's easily fixed. I have some red insulation tape. What about that live going out of the box to the switch at the other side of the wall? How do I change that? That's how I found it - almost. (See older picture). Bobbler

Hi, Thanks for the comments. All I have done is followed (or I thought I had) the advise given to me. Could I ask about the safe zone? The door is moving to the right of the switch and hence the cables will then be running up the left hand side of the door. Is this not OK. All the...

Hi, Thanks for the comments. All I have done is followed (or I thought I had) the advise given to me. Could I ask about the safe zone? The door is moving to the right of the switch and hence the cables will then be running up the left hand side of the door. Is this not OK. All the...

Hi, Thanks for all your help with the light switch problem. I have now sorted it out and to prove it there are some pictures at http://web.mac.com/hughescorp/iWeb/Site/LIGHT%20SWITH.html Breezer will know how to get them on the page. I have no idea! Again, thank you all. Bobbler

I think that it is a good height for sockets. We had a extension built a couple of years ago and the builder put the sockets at between 400 and 450 and it works well. It does make sense not to have to take the wire under the floor though.

Thanks to both of you for your interest and breezer - how did you do that? OK Looking at the photo from left to right the four switches operate wall light, ceiling light, ceiling light, wall light. Taylortwocities - You are right about the cables. The single red in need of a grommet goes...

Photo is now at http://web.mac.com/hughescorp/iWeb/Site/LIGHT%20SWITH.html