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Hi Tell80. I do not have a fireplace in the bedroom. Thanks for your advice.

Cheers for that Woody.

Ok Thanks for that. I had read that it always has to be an internal vent (Warm air Etc) which would spoil the lounge and prob be drafty

Top & Bottom? of the stack? And Do I need to remove the fire back completely?

1960/70 built property with an outside chimney (Walls on inside are flush) with a 10" (guess) tin lining. There was a Baxi installed but prior was a 'proper' fireplace. i need to brick this up as its not wanted but is it adequate to drill a few good sized holes from the outside and place a vent...

Speak to Josh at PGR 01702 - 690000. I found them hard to beat. Sadly, I found Jewsons - Stock Road are a joke these days.

Ok This one is very important as it has an Ibeam sitting across it as well as the wall above the door. Having said that I was advised by someone else to replace the failed bricks above & below the Concrete lintel (the one that I am replacing and extending), and below the RSJ with a section cut...

Thanks Jake. I did think a concrete lintel to be overkill. Def sitting alongside the Joist. I do need to install a concrete lintel elsewhere and it needs to be 1300 ideally but I am told cutting the lintel down to size is vorboden. Any thoughts on that yourself?

Thanks. Always wondered why but never bothered to ask :D

Thanks for that. Very easy to do at this point. Will fit an outside CH drain cock instead of internal one too I forgot about the 22mm. I meant to ask if there is a reason for 22 instead of 15 but u already answered.

Hi, The lazy oik that installed the CH in the property I own has left a completely upside down installation due to the way the pipes were on the original Oil fired system. The cold feed comes into the house, from the stopcock to the downstairs cold taps & toilet system, then up the corner of...

I am doing some mods to my property and have a question regarding cutting a doorway through a wall. The wall in question is between the garage and hall but although a 9" wall, is non load bearing i.e. runs parallel to the ceiling joists - and finishes just 3 course above the proposed doorway so...

Superb. Thank you very much for taking the time to answer this one for me, Bonni. Lets hope I (and the house) survives Lol) One thought, (also being a bit of a skinflint) would the older lintel not be harder than the new one? Using that of course will prevent exposing the iron in the door...

Excellent. Thanks for that Bonni. Sounds like I am ready to go. Just a couple of things - yes the wooden floor joists are at 90 Deg to the RSJ and I will be using scaffold boards above & below. I take it the 6x acrows plus one for the door widening will suffice? Since I an only needing...

Hi Bonni, Thanks for replying. I am mainly concerned as I need to extend the lintel below it. If I replace the lintel the bricks above will go so it makes sense to put an engineering brick below the RSJ Also I was thinking that 6 Acrow props (3x either side) would be sufficient to support RSJ...

The floor to my chalet above my lounge diner is the usual 7x3 slotted onto an 'I' beam spanning 11ft approx. Above the RSj is a brick wall 8' x 11' approx tied into the inner skin of brick at one end and a section of brick wall coming off at approx 45deg at the other end. This in turn is...

I understand. Might consider a strip and peek to see what that tells me. Thanks for tat useful info, anyhow.

Thanks Bernard. The failure to brake happened quite slowly - not all of a sudden. It worsened over time so would that happen if it were a resistor doing the braking? If that isn't the culprit how easy would it be to wire in a resistor for that purpose?

My lovely old SEALEY 150mm Model RM53 Bench grinder has developed a problem insomuch as it wont slow down as it should. Thinking prob centrifugal in reveres braking, I phoned Sealey for the parts and apparently its built into the motor. Hmm? Is this the DC voltage braking I learned once about...

Yes that makes sense. Thanks Gordon/Mr Dub It seemed logical AFTER I did it lol.