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I ordered from a building merchant timber for my new en-suite stud wall. I ordered 2inx3in and was delivered with 38mmx63mm, still is CLS C16 timber though but would that be right for the job? Another question, the other existing stud wall which I had to open, was empty between the 2 walls and...

We bought a house and it needed a new boiler and were recommended by a few to change all the pipework too. The plumbers are 80% done and just noticed that in half the rooms, they used the existing pipes (cutting corners, saving money...) I will highlight this to them as I was quoted for repiping...

plumber who came around....

I have attached a floorplan. I would like to get the boiler out of the kitchen and relocate it to the garage which will be the future entrance hall. The issue is, the boiler is currently on the right hand side of the house, same side as the kitchen, downstairs utility, first floor bathroom and...

floorplan boiler issue

I am planning to relocate the boiler to one part of the garage (later to be converted as the entrance hall). Current location of the boiler is in the kitchen also same side as the bathroom. The future location in the garage will be the opposite wall of the house. Is that of a concern in terms of...

I did quite a bit of plumbing in my previous house. I added a shower to a bathroom that only had a bath+sink+toilet. I moved the sink to the opposite wall, moved the bath tap from the end to side wall and used a T compression to hot&cold to add a shower. From initially plenty of pressure at the...

When a pipe is feeding a sink and I add a T connection to also feed a shower (hot+cold), how would I know if the result will be usable pressure once divided. Are there some calculations? dos and don't? any good plumbling diy books to explain this? thanks

yes that's right, the ron stove has a glass door, the whole thing will be bricked off with air bricks to let the air trapped behing circulate....gaining even more heat from the fireplace, but was worried with the smell of the soot, did think it would dry off, wasn't sure though. Did scrub quite...

The log burner is a real fireplace and is an insert that i have fitted into the old brickwork opening, previously fitted a coal burner that i took out. The new logburner is completly closed and the fumes go up the chimney. The problem is the old dirty brickwork that contained the coal burner...

I have fitted a log burner insert and the brickwork behind is still dirty with soot and could not take it off with brick acid or a metallic brush. When the log burner is cooling down, it starts to smell of soot slightly. The log burner insert will be bricked off with air bricks for a free flow...

i actually slightly damaged the 6mm2 cable by removing some plaster (doh!!!) and thought of a spur for the extractor/hood but just realised from a radial circuit. Some heatproof tape should do as only slightly damaged, could see the copper of one wire though...or should i repair it with a ccu...

one more question: if i wanted to supply an extractor fan/hood, could i use a spur from that 6mm2, before reaching the cooker switch ie between the switch and cu? The hood cable is only a 0.75mm2, could i replace it with a 1.5mm2 for the sur (using a ccu)? Other option would be from bottom of...

Does a structural engineer could do the same or has to be specifically an architect? I want to remove the diagonal beams (perpendicular to the roof) and the ones accross. I know some people that just had a go at it but that is close to stupidity!

Could someone tell me how to safely get rid of the supporting beams that support the roof both horizontally and diagonally, how to consolidate the roof to compensate or is that a job for professionals? Not too sure how to paste a picture on here.

Glad i don't have to channel the kitchen wall again! Was at b&q the other day, electrician told me i needed 2 radial circuits, another sparky said i didn't... Thanks for your help. Can't be clearer!

By single socket wired to the cooker outlet, is that off the 45A DP switch? or the cooker connection unit on the wall or straight off the connections on the hob? So still would be ok if one i upgrade with more powerfull then. By the way, is the cooker switch being 30cm away from hob good enough?

I have read a few posts in here now and just ended up confused!! I am currently redoing my kitchen and while doing the plaster, did burry a 6mm2 cable ready for use (not connected to the cu, also cu to be updated very soon) I am planning to re-use the existing built-in oven (not sure of...