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Hi there, I've removed some old skirting which has left a void, this has been filled with plasterboard and patched with bonding coat plaster. I now want to have the wall re-skimmed prior to adding the new skirting (which will be at a lower height). A problem is that the walls have been...

Hi there, I've a combination of copper and speedfit pipework for my CH system, I've DIYed some, and had different plumbers for other parts. Is there a 'standard' set up in terms of elbows etc for coming through a floor to connecting radiators - Personally I've always used a 90 deg...

Hi guys, I've removed some old skirting in my 1930s semi and there will now be a gap between the new lower height skirting and wall, which I intend to get a pro in to skim. I've PVA'd the engineered brick and added a couple of coats of bonding plaster (not fully dried and PVA between...

Thanks for the reply, I've only used the thinner skim beads before, but that was on a boarded wall, this will be back to the original brickwork. I guess a vertical straight and true edge is more important. I suppose with the period feature wood vs metal its a matter of personal (or the...

Hi. I’m looking to replace wooden corner beading with metal corner beading around the external corners of a chimney breast and window reveals. Advice on this forum seems to suggest its better to remove entirely and make up with bonding plaster and adding the beading. Is this correct? Is...

Hi, I’m replacing old skirting in an upstairs room, the new skirting is not as high as the old skirting I’m removing. Behind the skirting attached to external walls there is a void – the skirting was attached by a wedge between the bricks and then nailed on. It is a similar set up for a...

Hi, I've had an extension above my garage on a 1930s semi, resulting in a new hipped roof. The slats (I.e. the horizontal small batons used where the old roof tiles used to sit) from the old roof are still in place preventing access into the 'new loft'. Am I able to cut through these to...

I have just removed the cellophane covering from 2 x Howdens 4 panel 2 light glazed doors (http://www.howdens.com/doors-joinery-collection/internal-doors/internal-hardwood-doors/4-panel-oak-2-light-glazed/). The cellophane needed cutting around the edge of the glass otherwise untidy bits were...

Hi all, I'm in the process of reconfiguring my bathroom and I've hot a 'little' problem. I have a fixed mixer shower head with a secondary outlet for a handheld shower, which is connected via a flexi-hose to a 'designer' elbow. After tiling it seems that the thread isn't quite long...

hopefully you can see from the (rotated) picture the wall. The property was built in 1937, and the wall seem to be standard, but I'm not sure. There is evendence externally that a window has been moved at some stage in the past on this wall, yet the internall wall composition seems to be...

Hi Richard, yes this is the same job, but a different area (dry, zone 3) of the bathroom with standard 12.5mm baseboard (stud wall). As I'm removing coving (which is a bit of a pain, any tips?) where the new board (also guess it'llbe the same for the aqua panel, but not got there yet) meets...

Thanks Richard, the wall is definately solid, and doesnt appear to have a top coat of plaster. The wall is generally in very good condition, and the tile adhesive is coming of OK with little damage to the surface below. I was a little surprised as the finish of the render is excellent, just...

What material is the wall on the right made of, its grey in colour? This is within my shower area, an external wall. I have removed the wall tiles and was thinking that I would have to re-board with aqua panel, not realising it was a apparently cement based wall, smooth solid wall. Does...

Thanks, no this isn't the shower area, but I guess it will be a similar situation when I get there (apart from the board will be aqua panel). I certainly shall skrim tape the join, but wasn't sure of grout or silicone. Doesn't silicone pull paint off the ceiling? is it a differing case in...

can I get away with not filling these gaps at the top and edge of new drywall, which I shall be tiling directly upon (after priming). What is the usual procedure for tiling up to the ceiling, use caulk? (as grout would disappear through the hole!) or edging strip - which I think can look naff...