Fluffster said:
No I havent thats why Im asking now before I fill it and hear joints exploding everywhere lol
Its a bit difficult to get access to the drops, so my just leave it and see what happens. Hopefully it will be ok
1 pipe system
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- Start date
No I havent thats why Im asking now before I fill it and hear joints exploding everywhere lol
Its a bit difficult to get access to the drops, so my just leave it and see what happens. Hopefully it will be ok
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Balenza said:
In the middle of a ploughed field
One of your DIY/Heath Robinson/botch ups, balenda
The second one to see why you get it wrong
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If the system worked satisfactorily before with a mixture of one pipe and two pipe then there's no reason why it shouldn't be the same now.
You need to bear two things in mind;
Firstly, you can't powerflush a one pipe system because the water just goes round the loop and misses all the rads. You will need to take each one pipe rad off individually and hose out (preferably outside) .
Secondly, if you have fitted TRVs to the one pipe rads they must be ones designed for a high flow; these usually have to be specially ordered. We waited three weeks for Drayton TRV4 bodies just before Xmas because they make them in batches.
Most boiler manufacturers have no problem with you connecting to one pipe systems (W-Bosch, for one), but the efficiency of the system will be slightly reduced.
If the customer is prepared to pay for their system to be upgraded, this is of course the best option, but if they aren't, keep things as they are.
You need to bear two things in mind;
Firstly, you can't powerflush a one pipe system because the water just goes round the loop and misses all the rads. You will need to take each one pipe rad off individually and hose out (preferably outside)
.Secondly, if you have fitted TRVs to the one pipe rads they must be ones designed for a high flow; these usually have to be specially ordered. We waited three weeks for Drayton TRV4 bodies just before Xmas because they make them in batches.
Most boiler manufacturers have no problem with you connecting to one pipe systems (W-Bosch, for one), but the efficiency of the system will be slightly reduced.
If the customer is prepared to pay for their system to be upgraded, this is of course the best option, but if they aren't, keep things as they are.
With respect to unvented systems exploding, this is very difficult to do because modern boilers have all manner of protection measure to stop them reaching high temperatures.
If you look at a mainstream condenser, it is fitted with a plastic exhaust flue and the makers have go to great measures to build in safeguards. New WB oilers have plastic flues too.
Therefore, whilst I don't suggest G3 etc is unnecessary, in real terms it is very very difficult to get an unvented cylinder to overheat when coupled to a modern boiler. Viessmann got their 333 hybrid unvented/combi through the tests using a shared condense and overflow by proving their boiler couldn't overheat.
If you look at a mainstream condenser, it is fitted with a plastic exhaust flue and the makers have go to great measures to build in safeguards. New WB oilers have plastic flues too.
Therefore, whilst I don't suggest G3 etc is unnecessary, in real terms it is very very difficult to get an unvented cylinder to overheat when coupled to a modern boiler. Viessmann got their 333 hybrid unvented/combi through the tests using a shared condense and overflow by proving their boiler couldn't overheat.
If the heating system was working acceptably before then it will be no worse with the new boiler.
There are a few things you can do to improve the situation.
Use a 15-60 rather than 15-50.
Ensure there is a gate valve in the cylinder indirect heating coil to balance it with the heating and start with this only open 1.5 turns. Set it for a 10-15°C temperature drop across the coil when stabilised and the water inside is coolish.
Close the downstairs rad lockshield valves to the minimum setting and aim for about 15-20° temp diff across flow and return for each.
That will give you a higher system flow head and improve the flow through the one pipe upstairs rads.
If you get into difficulties call Softus as he is nearby.
Tony
There are a few things you can do to improve the situation.
Use a 15-60 rather than 15-50.
Ensure there is a gate valve in the cylinder indirect heating coil to balance it with the heating and start with this only open 1.5 turns. Set it for a 10-15°C temperature drop across the coil when stabilised and the water inside is coolish.
Close the downstairs rad lockshield valves to the minimum setting and aim for about 15-20° temp diff across flow and return for each.
That will give you a higher system flow head and improve the flow through the one pipe upstairs rads.
If you get into difficulties call Softus as he is nearby.
Tony
Thanks for the advice guys but ive ripped it all out and re-piped it
Thanks again
Thanks again
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