Don't think I'd want 6' of flex on my toaster, kettle etc.
*with the exception of kitchen appliances which are used on a countertop OBVIOUSLY
(hairdryers on beds is a HUGE cause of fire in the UK).
Where's the data which shows that?
Do a bit of research. Enlighten yourself. When I was at university, there was a huge problem with hairdryers (and straighteners) setting fire to beds in dorm rooms because students were using them to get clothes dry. The thermal cutout would trip, they'd dump them on the bed, later the cutout would reset, setting fire to the bed.
And can you explain how having the facility use hairdryers in the bathroom prevents people from using them in the bedroom if they want to?
If you were a woman, would you rather a) perch somewhere in a dim-lit bedroom trying to dry your hair and get ready or b) stand in front of a nice big mirror in a brightly-lit bathroom with all your makeup and crap to hand on the counter?
We've required RCD protection for sockets likely to be used to supply things outdoors for decades. And now for all sockets, indoors and out.
You and I both know how many houses in this country still have no RCD protection, and I think you'll find it's a majority. 70's and 80's rewires commonly had no RCD protection of RCD/(CGFI) outlets. The US has required CGFI outlets in 'wet locations' since 1968 with full code in 1980.
The current requirements for those sorts of appliances are a lot lower here than in the US because the voltage here is twice what is is there.
WRONG. Alot of high-current US appliances are 240v (two-phase) requiring 4-prong plugs and dedicated lines, dictating where in the house the appliances can be used. A 13a British tumble dryer will draw close to full 13amps for at least an hour. Most wiring accessories/extension cords just aren't 'beefy' enough to handle it, let along something else plugged in too.
Where's the data which shows those things?
again, do a little googling. Enlighten yourself. You'll find a lot of news stories for downlighter fires in Australia which have similar electrical product specifications as British ones. Then google 'Insulation suitable can light US' you'll find no worthy equivalent in the UK apart from a select few which have 'heat sinks' fitted to the top.
Regulations contradict eachother,
Yes they do. Part L requires continuous insulation across the roof space. Electrical regulations require adequate spacing around downlighters. Most builders and electicians are at odds to come up with a method of fully satisfying both requirements, short of hashing up DIY boxes from plasterboard or metal or using 'downlighter caps' (which cause the downlighter to overheat by the way)
Here too you must use luminaires which are appropriate.
The choice and availability of fittings which satisfy being: airtight, insulation-suitable, fire and acoustic-rated (and sometimes IP rated for specific bathroom zones aswell) is not widely accessible, or even in existence?. DIY stores do not stock them, and they are usually an order-only item, with most qualified electricians being virtually unaware of their existence. Most electricians are also only familiar with electrical regulations, and are unaware of various building regulations (Part L). And builders fail to communicate with electricians (or plumbers and vica versa) on many accounts.
oh dear. And I thought it was bad when the plastic earth prong snaps off in a British socket. It would be better if the terminals in the socket were back far enough so that you have to push a plug in entirely before the prongs actually contact the terminals. You wouldn't need sleeving at all then Simple logic. Oh well.
