2 problems possibly connected

[rolyatescort]

Hi Guys,

Over the last 2 days the plumbing in my bathroom has developed 2 problems which i am assuming are connected.

When turning the cold tap on for the bath, there was a large clunking noise then a massive drop in pressure. The tap has to almost fully open to get any flow at all and at fully open it is barely more than a drip. All other taps in the house are working as normal.

The second problem is with the shower, a Triton Opal 9.5kw Electric Shower, which takes its feed from the same source, when turned on last night the water started pouring from the little overflow pipe (behind the connection for the shower head) rather than the shower head, this happened for several seconds then the shower head started to flow but the overflow pipe continued to run. Immediately after turning the shower off the pipework gurgles loudly for a few seconds. I have tested the shower several times since always with the same result.

There has recently been work on the local supply undertaken by Northumbrian Water which has disrupted our supply several times, each time supply was returned the taps would spurt and bang as if expelling air. Further to that the shower and bath have been unused for a fortnight due to us being on holiday.

Could anyone offer any help?

Thanks in advance.

 

[Gasguru]

It appears there was a lot of trapped air within the mains pipework. This has caused damage to the relief valve on the shower (you will need to replace the part). Always bleed air from the shower by removing the showerhead, setting the temperature to cold and the flowrate to maximum.

Once water clear of air is present the showerhead can be re-attached.

Air has probably caused damage to the cold tap(assuming its off the main) - you may find the jumper on the end of the valve has been dislodged or sheared off.

It may be worth investigating if thw water ccompany is liable.

 

[rolyatescort]

Thanks very much for that. I have lodged a complaint with the water authority.

The cold tap is fed from the main. What do i need to do to it and what am i looking for?

 

[Gasguru]

Get some serious grips around the tap body and remove the valve part.

Check for damage to the washer and jumper (the part that holds the washer) - some are held on by a screw. If you need to replace the valve you may be lucky and find its standard in which case you can obtain just the valve.

 

[Softus]

Over the last 2 days the plumbing in my bathroom has developed 2 problems which i am assuming are connected.

If the bath cold tap is mains fed (rather than tank fed), then the symptoms could both be caused by some foreign matter blocking the flow.

Regarding the shower, if the debris got past the inlet filter, and then blocked the outlet from the heater can, then this would cause the Triton pressure relief device to operate - the result is a drip from the little tube behind the hose connection.

Once operated these devices are shot, and you have to get a new one from Triton - about £8 for a set of two.

Before you fit it, remove the heater can (isolate electrically before removing the cover), and empty it of all debris.

Regarding the bath, isolate the cold tap, undo and take out the headwork, and clean it out.

 

[Nige F]

Cold bath Tap.................Horseshoe circlip is loose/ broken Psychic Eye, it never lie

 

[rolyatescort]

Thanks for all the help guys.

Replacement PRV came from Triton today (10/10 for customer service for Triton), everything cleaned and installed in about 10 minutes flat and now all working perfectly.

Sorry Nige, tried the circlip and it is fine, looks like i'm going to have to strip the cold tap down, which is a real pain as the isolating valve is behind the bath panel, oh well.

Thanks again.

 

[Softus]

Replacement PRV came from Triton today (10/10 for customer service for Triton), everything cleaned and installed in about 10 minutes flat and now all working perfectly.

Just curious - did you have to remove any debris from the water path through the shower? Or does it appear to have just been a transient pressure peak?

...the isolating valve is behind the bath panel...

Or you could shut off the mains and empty the cold cistern.

Naturally you'd empty it into several water buts that could later be used to water the garden

 

[rolyatescort]

I checked the pipework where possible, the heater can and srestarted the shower on cold with maximum flow, all i got was gurgling and lots of air, no sign of any debris.

Unfortunately i can't turn the mains off as the stopcock doesn't work. I now have the prblem that i can't get the bath panel off to get at the isolating valve, do you think that turning all the other taps on would reduce pressure enough to take a look at the tap without turning the water off or do i really need to get at that valve?

Thanks in advance.

 

[Gasguru]

The relief valve probably opened due to air within the pipework. The sudden inertia of water entrained with air causing overpressure.

The inlet strainers on electric showers are often very fine and it is unlikely any debris will have found its way into the shower.

I have replaced valve inserts on gravity systems (with other taps open) but I think you'll get very wet with mains - can you not find the stopcock on the boundary or loosen up the internal stopcocck?

 

[rolyatescort]

The problem with the stopcock is that turning the wheel has absolutely no effect on the flow of the water even when fully closed. I have no idea where the boundary stopcock is.

Looks like i'm going to have to find a way to get this panel off.

Thanks

 

[breezer]

boundry stopcock is the one in the road / path outside your house

 

[Softus]

Unfortunately i can't turn the mains off as the stopcock doesn't work.

Then I suggest that you freeze the mains and fit a new stop cock.

I now have the prblem that i can't get the bath panel off to get at the isolating valve...

Use the new stop cock in instead.

do you think that turning all the other taps on would reduce pressure enough to take a look at the tap without turning the water off...

No; not unless hell had just frozen over!

...or do i really need to get at that valve?

Yes; or freeze the mains etc.

 

[rolyatescort]

boundry stopcock is the one in the road / path outside your house

I live in one of a row of 4 terraced houses that share a communal boundary stopcock. It can only be turned of with the express written permission of all other property owners (one of whom lives in france) and then i have to pay Northumbria Water to come and do it. Next problem is that Northumbria Water don't actually know where the stopcock is. The lady next door wants a water meter fitted but after much searching and digging by the water company they have given up looking for the stopcock and told her she can't have a new meter!


Have looked at the possibility of freezing the pipe before, problem being that virtually all of the pipework around the original stopcock is in the wall as it was diverted into the extension and the stopcock itself is literally quarter an inch above ground level and absolutely tight to both walls in the corner of the house. Last time a local plumber looked at doing the work for me he wasn't keen at all.

 

[Softus]

Have looked at the possibility of freezing the pipe before, problem being that virtually all of the pipework around the original stopcock is in the wall as it was diverted into the extension and the stopcock itself is literally quarter an inch above ground level and absolutely tight to both walls in the corner of the house. Last time a local plumber looked at doing the work for me he wasn't keen at all.

I sympathise - with both you and the plumber. My heart would sink at the sight of the job, but then I'd buckle down and get on with it.

You need to excavate enough ground and/or chisel away enough brickwork to be able to (a) freeze the water and (b) fit a new stop cock.

Bear in mind that you don't absolutely have to remove the old stop cock....