2 way switched lampholder

pff

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Good evening,
I'm interested in controlling a floor lamp from not only the lamp, but also from the location of the existing wall switch.
Is there such a thing as a lampholder with a 2 way switch rather than just 1 way?
Thanks in advance.
 
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Ok, thanks anyway.
The wireless controll looks interesting, but I'm not sure how i would build the second switch into the lamp (the last thing i need is another remote to loose), and it sems a bit expensive whereas i have a roll of three core and earth left from another project so a couple of pounds for the right switch would have been very cost effective.

At the moment plan b is to fit a ceiling pull cord into the lamp base and run the pull cord up inside the lamp pole and out near the bulb to give a pull cord style operation.

I had looked at hager klik style plug & sockets, but i dont know if i can use them because of something to do with they aren't shuttered? Other option is just an outlet plate on the wall i suppose.
 
You could use something like this switch

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/toggle-switches/1977715/

if there is room in the lamp. It is a double pole so one pole would not be used

You would have to ensure the mounting bush was securely connected to the earth wire to ensure the lever could not become live if the switch failed in any way. Also ensure the cable was securely clamped where it entered the lamp and did not rely on the screw terminals of the switch for its strain relief. ( that which stops the cable being pulled out of the lamp )
 
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It's easy enough to do with 5amp round pin sockets, will just require a lot of channeling of the walls (from ceiling down to socket location and from socket to light switch

We have the 5a sockets in our lounge and kitchen/diner and theyre the best thing since sliced bread, plus you can control them from the lamp also

Or am I totally missing the point of the OP?
 
i have a roll of three core and earth left from another project so a couple of pounds for the right switch would have been very cost effective.
That would require running 3C+E from the wall to the light - it's not meant for that, and would look utter cack.


At the moment plan b is to fit a ceiling pull cord into the lamp base and run the pull cord up inside the lamp pole and out near the bulb to give a pull cord style operation.
That would work, with 4-core flex, but the light would end up permanently cabled into the wall, unless you can find a suitable 4-pin plug & socket.
 
It's easy enough to do with 5amp round pin sockets,
So the light would have 2 lengths of flex and be plugged into 2 sockets.

A tad naff, and what would happen if it got plugged into the wrong ones?


We have the 5a sockets ... you can control them from the lamp also
How?


Or am I totally missing the point of the OP?
IHNI, but his point was simple and clearly expressed, so I don't see how.
 
You could use something like this switch

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/toggle-switches/1977715/

if there is room in the lamp. It is a double pole so one pole would not be used

I was having a look at different switches, but im not sure that i could get away with mounting something like that somewhere on the lamp without ruining the look. (im sure it can be done, just i'm not the one to do it.)
I suppose any double throw switch rated at 6 amps would do?

I had considered a foot switch arrangement but the lamp will be in a corner behind a sofa, so floor access is limited.

We have the 5a sockets in our lounge and kitchen/diner and theyre the best thing since sliced bread, plus you can control them from the lamp also

I supose this isn't two way switching but two switches in series?

pff wrote:
i have a roll of three core and earth left from another project so a couple of pounds for the right switch would have been very cost effective.

That would require running 3C+E from the wall to the light - it's not meant for that, and would look utter cack.....

Sorry, yes of course from the wall to the lamp would be in 4 core flex, not in the 3C&E cable.
I'm not too bothered about it being permanently wired, I suppose in the future it would be simple enough to change to a round pin and just terminate the extra cores in the back box.

unless you can find a suitable 4-pin plug & socket
I dont really fancy a 3 phase commando type attachment. As i said earlier i had been looking at Hager Klik range, but i dont know if its suitable for domestic, any advice on this?
 
Ok, thanks anyway.
The wireless controll looks interesting, but I'm not sure how i would build the second switch into the lamp

With something like EasySwitch you would have a wireless controlled socket.
Like this
http://www.luminite.co.uk/easyswitch-plug-in-remote-control-socket.php
Your lamp would be plugged into this at any convenient 13A socket.

You would be able to turn this on and off from an EasySwitch remote control fob and/or from an EasySwitch wireless switch by the door.
 
It's easy enough to do with 5amp round pin sockets,
So the light would have 2 lengths of flex and be plugged into 2 sockets.

A tad naff, and what would happen if it got plugged into the wrong ones?

I was thinking standard 0.75mm cable to the 5a socket with an inline switch and then wiring in the 5a socket to the lighting circuit with T+E & 3C+E

We have the 5a sockets ... you can control them from the lamp also

How?

Inline flex switches or switches on the lamps themselves? Obviously relies on the wall switch being on


I think like I said, I'm missing the OP's intentions somewhat
 
The klik range do a 4 pin plug/socket the plug is red but the cover is white, its desighned for two lives out really but have seen them used as live out and switch return before, but in your case youd be using the neutral terminal for a live as well, could confuse someone maintaining the system in future though, but would work, personally if the lamp dont need moving then flex out from a standard 3 plate ceiling rose
 
UMM, you use the "old method" of two way wiring.

Bring the permanent live to the common of the fixed switch and take the two strappers from L1 and L2 of the fixed switch.

Then you bring N, E and the two strappers to the switch on the lamp either hardwired though a flex outlet plate or plugged in through something like a kilk connector that can support two live connections.
 

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