3 gang switch to 1 gang question

[johndm1957]

Hi there,

I have a 3 gang wall switch outside my en-suite bathroom which controls 3 circuits.

1. 3 ceiling LED downlights
2. One shower cubicle LED downlight
3. Over mirror LED strip

I want to change to a 1 gang WiFi touch switch to just switch all 3 circuits on or off.
The WiFi switch is the no neutral type, and I already have installed these in all single gang bedroom light circuits.

Not sure how to join the 3 circuits behind the existing 3 gang conventional switch, can anyone advise the correct way to do this please?

My previous installations have needed a load capacitor added on one of the light fittings to stop flicker, would I need 3 load capacitors and put one on each of the 3 circuits in the en-suite?

Advice appreciated

 

[Taylortwocities]

Lets see a photo of the existing wiring, then we can help with the connection info. And a pic of the wifi switch connections too please.

If a load cap is needed, you'll only need one, once they are all connected together.

 

[johndm1957]

Are these clear enough to see where we are?

 

[EFLImpudence]

 

[johndm1957]

Thanks for the quick reply, never had time to post the new switch, but here it is for reference anyways.
Much appreciated.
I will put the load capacitor on the easiest downlight to access.

So the original installer marked the three 'to lamp wires' with with black tape

 

[johndm1957]

Where did you get that wi fi switch? It is the wrong voltage for UK use.

Never spotted that, the switch description read ok,

Item specifics
Condition:
New: A brand-new, unused, unopened and undamaged item in original retail packaging (where packaging is ... Read more
Brand: Unbranded
Max. Power: 1500W/Gang Compatible Product: Smart Phone / Alexa& Echo dot Google Home、IFTTT
Power rating: 600W Installation Area: Indoor
Power Supply: 90V-250V AC Material: ABS + Tempered Glass
Security Mechanism: WPA-PSK/WPA2-PSK Max. Current: 2A/250V/Gang
Type: Smart Switch

Suitable for household appliances lamps, lighting and electrical equipment, universal for UK.

Specification:
Input voltage: 100-240VAC 50/60Hz
Networking: wifi+RF 433
Power rating: 2*600W
Rated current: 10A
Product size (Size): about 86 * 86 * 35mm (Europe)
Life: 100,000 times
Housing Color: White (Whtie/Black/Gold)
Operation Temperature: -20°C ~ +50°C
Plastic material: ABS+PC
Fire-protection rating: 94-V0
Packing size: about 106*100*51mm
Gross weight: about 211g
Security Mechanism: WPA-PSK/WPA2-PSK
Control Mode: touch control, voice control, phone APP
Material: ABS + Tempered Glass
Color: White - 1/2/3Gang | Black - 1/2/3Gang| Gold - 1/2/3Gang

 

[Taylortwocities]

Ok thanks for that. Also…

And a pic of the wifi switch connections too please.

er.

 

[johndm1957]

The four I've already installed work fine, would it be an issue if it was rated for 220v in the UK?

WiFi switches that don't need a neutral seem to be pretty rare in the UK unless anyone knows a UK supplier?

 

[Taylortwocities]

Probably best to avoid Winston’s input. It will only confuse things.

Looking at EFLI’s post #4
The red wire labelled “live supply” goes to L
You do not need the two link wires that loop from COM to COM.

the three reds with black tape all go to L2.

that’s it. But I guess you’ve worked that out for yourself?

 

[johndm1957]

Probably best to avoid Winston’s input. It will only confuse things.

Looking at EFLI’s post #4
The red wire labelled “live supply” goes to L
You do not need the two link wires that loop from COM to COM.

the three reds with black tape all go to L2.

that’s it. But I guess you’ve worked that out for yourself?

Sure did but thanks for the input. Quite impressed with the switches so far, they work well

 

[Taylortwocities]

Sure did but thanks for the input. Quite impressed with the switches so far, they work well

What make and model are they. It’s not revealed in the info u posted.

 

[johndm1957]

What make and model are they. It’s not revealed in the info u posted.

Non brand Chinese from Ebay and or Amazon
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/No-Neutr...var=513167309142&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

 

[conny]

Where did you get that wi fi switch? It is the wrong voltage for UK use.

Please explain WHY it is the wrong voltage for the UK. (See emboldened areas below)

Never spotted that, the switch description read ok,

Item specifics
Condition:
New: A brand-new, unused, unopened and undamaged item in original retail packaging (where packaging is ... Read more
Brand: Unbranded
Max. Power: 1500W/Gang Compatible Product: Smart Phone / Alexa& Echo dot Google Home、IFTTT
Power rating: 600W Installation Area: Indoor
Power Supply: 90V-250V AC Material: ABS + Tempered Glass
Security Mechanism: WPA-PSK/WPA2-PSK Max. Current: 2A/250V/Gang
Type: Smart Switch

Suitable for household appliances lamps, lighting and electrical equipment, universal for UK.

Specification:
Input voltage: 100-240VAC 50/60Hz
Networking: wifi+RF 433
Power rating: 2*600W
Rated current: 10A
Product size (Size): about 86 * 86 * 35mm (Europe)
Life: 100,000 times
Housing Color: White (Whtie/Black/Gold)
Operation Temperature: -20°C ~ +50°C
Plastic material: ABS+PC
Fire-protection rating: 94-V0
Packing size: about 106*100*51mm
Gross weight: about 211g
Security Mechanism: WPA-PSK/WPA2-PSK
Control Mode: touch control, voice control, phone APP
Material: ABS + Tempered Glass
Color: White - 1/2/3Gang | Black - 1/2/3Gang| Gold - 1/2/3Gang

 

[EFLImpudence]

This is all it says on the label - which was seen first.

It does seem at odds with the instructions.

 

[JohnW2]

This is all it says on the label - which was seen first. ... It does seem at odds with the instructions.

Indeed, but since it's just an in-line device (with no neutral) isn't the supply voltage essentially irrelevant (within reason)?

The electronics within it only know what current is flowing through it, regardless of whether the 'supply' voltage is 22V, 220V or 2,200V (relative to N or E). The only issue is that when it is in the 'off' state, it has to be able to withstand essentially the full supply voltage across it, but I would not expect something labelled "220V" (for whatever reason) to have a problem with 'withstanding' 230V, 240V or 250V.

Kind Regards, John