Adding A Fridge Radial And Outdoor Circuit To CU

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OK so here's a picture of my CU:

D59OFJh.jpg

EJq9PBr.jpg


I did some examination of the "power down" circuit and found a spur from the MCB going to the television double socket on 2.5mm cable (marked it with a black line above).

I added another spur from this to the other side of the wall (kitchen) for a fridge double socket. Of course this is against guidelines so I am planning to add another MCB to the non-RCD protected side of the CU which I'll route the spur wire to and it will power just the TV & fridge on 2x double sockets and 2.5mm radial. Anything I should worry about having TV and fridge without RCD protection?

The second thing wanna do is add an "outdoor" MCB. Now this is what's confusing me as it will be running:

-Outdoor lights (mostly LED) probably 60W max altogether.
-Outdoor double socket.
-Extension from outdoor double socket to shed without consumer unit (to power a double socket and fluorescent light). Likely to be in armored cable clipped to bottom of fence.
-Possible CCTV cameras (1 or 2 at the back, 1 at the front, maybe a couple in the house (pointing at front doors.)

Haven't looked into CCTV yet but am thinking of a wireless set which transmits video footage over WiFi.

Of course this will go on the RCD protected side.

Is it a bad idea to put all these on one MCB and how on earth do I make the connection splits for the different objects, for example, can I have a junction box under the stairs where the cables meet (so in from MCB, 1 out to outdoor socket, 1 out to outdoor lighting, 1 out to CCTV etc)?

Any help is appreciated as this outdoor circuit is in the planning stages at the moment since I've still got a lot of non-electrical kitchen tasks to do. Thanks.
 
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In short, you can add an 16A mcb to the rcd protected side to supply a DP switch which supplies.

Leg 1 = ----- outdoor socket ---- shed socket---- FCU (3A fuse)---- light
Leg 2 = -----FCU (3a fuse)----- outside LED lights

Note

The CU is missing its bus bar cover ! and is obsolete. You may want to have it replaced.
If not, try ebay for MCB's .

The reason for the DP switch is to allow complete isolation to all external wiring under fault conditions.

Kind regards,

DS

.
 
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Leg 1 = ----- outdoor socket ---- shed socket---- FCU (3A fuse)---- light
Leg 2 = -----FCU (3a fuse)----- outside LED lights

Sounds good, but if I add a DP switch it will be to the right of the consumer unit (lots of space there). From thereon the cables will go up into the ceiling.

The 3a FCU for the lights is also likely to be next to the DP switch... from which 2 cables will go out into the ceiling - one for the flood light and one for the outdoor spotlights. Because the switches for these lights will be indoor, the 2 cables are likely to each be terminated in a MF junction box (for the switch lines), left under the floor boards, so the 2 cables that poke outside are already switchable.

Just found out CCTV can be powered by Ethernet... which chucks the idea of hard-wiring it to this circuit out of the equation.

Bus bar cover was removed for the pic, all back together now. Will look for compatible MCB as it's too much replacing the CU plus the costs involved.

I think that's my refined plan for now.
 
The cooker circuit is buried but doesn't have RCD protection. I guess it only applies to newly installed circuits/cables. Outdoor circuit will not be buried.
it applies to any newly installed socket regardless of the historical construction of the circuit, it applies to any newly cable that is buried less than 50mm, that is not mechanically protected, again regardless of the historical construction of the circuit.

Also any newly installed circuit, will require notification to building controls.
 
And Building Regulations approval required on all new circuits.

I'm not sure that the OP will be able to convince Building Control of his competence to ensure compliance.
The OP has already showed a lack of understanding of the requirements of BS7671, so I am in agreement.
 

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