Advice on removing unused cable
- Thread starter gselliott
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OK.
Looks like TN-S. An earth comes from the sheath to the CU. So you must have one MEB running to both gas & water, or else one has done without.
Have you got a 10mm² MEB to both gas & water pipes, within 600mm of meter or 'cock?
Enquire about having your metalclad intake changed. It may well contain a porcelain fuseholder with 3036 fuse. While they're at it, they can upgrade your main earth, change the meter & fit an isolation switch!
Looks like TN-S. An earth comes from the sheath to the CU. So you must have one MEB running to both gas & water, or else one has done without.
Have you got a 10mm² MEB to both gas & water pipes, within 600mm of meter or 'cock?
Enquire about having your metalclad intake changed. It may well contain a porcelain fuseholder with 3036 fuse. While they're at it, they can upgrade your main earth, change the meter & fit an isolation switch!
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You have TN-s, so the earth supply comes from the sheath of the incoming cable.
The two fatter earth wires in your CU: one must be to the main earthing terminal, and the other (hopefully) is the main equipotential bonding to the water & gas pipes. You need to confirm whether you have a 10mm² earth wire attached to your gas & water pipes.
Ask your electricity provider if they can update their side of your installation so that you have a new meter (does it have a date of installation on it?) & upgraded earth connection & the old metal box needs changing too, really. Also, if you get an isolation switch fitted, you can make alterations to your consumer unit safely without having to ask the DNO to come & dis/reconnect.
The two fatter earth wires in your CU: one must be to the main earthing terminal, and the other (hopefully) is the main equipotential bonding to the water & gas pipes. You need to confirm whether you have a 10mm² earth wire attached to your gas & water pipes.
Ask your electricity provider if they can update their side of your installation so that you have a new meter (does it have a date of installation on it?) & upgraded earth connection & the old metal box needs changing too, really. Also, if you get an isolation switch fitted, you can make alterations to your consumer unit safely without having to ask the DNO to come & dis/reconnect.
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We like to see the main earth coming from the supplier's cable head. In your case it looks like there is a (unsheathed and rather samall) wire connected to the iron box or the outside of the suppply cable, and going to thet earth block on the wall. from there we see a G&Y earth wire which (we hope) goes to your Consumer Unit.
If you ask your electricity supplier, they will probably arrange for the old iron head to be replaced with a modern plastic one, and to supply a better earthing point.
edited: bah!
p.s. can you take a better pic of the bottom of that iron box, where the thin wire comes out?
If you ask your electricity supplier, they will probably arrange for the old iron head to be replaced with a modern plastic one, and to supply a better earthing point.
edited: bah!
p.s. can you take a better pic of the bottom of that iron box, where the thin wire comes out?
Thanks for that (I think) i'm finding out a bit more than i wanted to hear tho i think but better knowing now while the house is in pieces.
If i ask the electricity supplier to change their end how much is that likely to cost me??
Yep I'll get another picture of that for you!
If i ask the electricity supplier to change their end how much is that likely to cost me??
Yep I'll get another picture of that for you!
If you can convince them it is unsatisfactory, they should do it for nothing.
Otherwise, providing a Protective Multiple Earth or a sweated on earthing point might cost you £60 to £120 and is worth it.
You will need to buy some earthing wire and clamps, but it's easy to do your bit.
Otherwise, providing a Protective Multiple Earth or a sweated on earthing point might cost you £60 to £120 and is worth it.
You will need to buy some earthing wire and clamps, but it's easy to do your bit.
I'll get onto them and see what they say then! What would i be asking for? Sorry for all the stupid questions but this is all going over my head!
Do you think i should not bother removing the old cable for now then? or is this something i'll be able to do??
Do you think i should not bother removing the old cable for now then? or is this something i'll be able to do??
You may as well remove the old cable while you have the CU open.
Then close it up, and follow your G&Y cables to see where they go. Measure the run that you will need for a cable between the CU and the incoming water main (your side of the main stopcock); and the CU and the gas pipe (your side of the meter) and the distance between the CU and the incoming electricity cable. Allow for slack. Those need doing anyway.
Observe how any existing earth bonds are connected to the pipes (new clamps are cheap). Measure the existing G&Y so you can compare it to the stuff in your DIY shed and decide if it is 6mm or 10mm (10mm is current standard, you may well have 6mm). Upgrading bonding is cheap and easy.
We'll know a bit more about what to say when we see the other pic.
Then close it up, and follow your G&Y cables to see where they go. Measure the run that you will need for a cable between the CU and the incoming water main (your side of the main stopcock); and the CU and the gas pipe (your side of the meter) and the distance between the CU and the incoming electricity cable. Allow for slack. Those need doing anyway.
Observe how any existing earth bonds are connected to the pipes (new clamps are cheap). Measure the existing G&Y so you can compare it to the stuff in your DIY shed and decide if it is 6mm or 10mm (10mm is current standard, you may well have 6mm). Upgrading bonding is cheap and easy.
We'll know a bit more about what to say when we see the other pic.
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The DNO should not charge for the earthing point: you can easily persuade them that that CSA is not enough to carry fault current. They are responsible for the upkeep of an earthing terminal they have provided.
As for the meter, if it's not 100A, tell them you want to fit extra circuits (a fat shower is a good example) then they'll probably change that. They should change them automatically on a 20 year cycle anyway.
The old iron cut-out should be changed if it has a 3036 fuse in it.
And you can ask for an isolation switch. This may cost you depending on your DNO, but it won't be more than 30-40 quid.
As for the meter, if it's not 100A, tell them you want to fit extra circuits (a fat shower is a good example) then they'll probably change that. They should change them automatically on a 20 year cycle anyway.
The old iron cut-out should be changed if it has a 3036 fuse in it.
And you can ask for an isolation switch. This may cost you depending on your DNO, but it won't be more than 30-40 quid.
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JohnD said:
And not notifiable!!
Fest FYI
15A is blue
20A is Yellow
15A is blue
20A is Yellow
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